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Libya is racing to bury its dead as bodies pile up in the streets of Derna, the northern coastal city devastated by flooding after a torrential downpour smashed through two dams, washing homes into the sea.

As well as introducing groundbreaking garments for women, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel embodied her brand in a way no other designer had done before, a new exhibition highlights. Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto – at London’s V&A Museum – traces the life and work of the famed French designer, who was born in the Loire Valley in 1883 and taught to sew by nuns in the orphanage to which she was sent aged 11, when her mother died. “Before her, designers weren’t really known,” says Oriole Cullen, curator of modern textiles and fashion and the V&A. “Their names were known, but they weren’t visible figures within society.” Starting out as a seamstress and cabaret singer, before establishing herself as milliner, Chanel later turned her focus to couture fashion and began designing casual clothing for women, inspired by the menswear of the era. “The Chanel brand as it stands [today] is really based on these ideas that she ushered in 100 years ago,” Cullen says, which is where the exhibition title comes from. “The meaning of that is really about a template that Gabrielle Chanel set out at the very beginning of her design career and came back to, reimagined and reinvented throughout her long career of sixty years.” Bringing together nearly 200 outfits, the show features items from the opening of her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection, two weeks after she died in 1971. Signature designs on display include little black dresses, tweed suits and quilted leather handbags – the most iconic of which is the 2.55 bag. “The 2.55 has never really gone out of fashion since she designed it in 1955,” Cullen says. “That is fascinating in terms of high fashion, that an object can stay the course for such a long time and still be relevant.” Part of the upper echelons of French society, Chanel initially relied on wealthy lovers, such as French ex-cavalry officer Etienne Balsan and English polo player Arthur Edward ‘Boy’ Capel to fund her boutiques. Later becoming a celebrity in her own right, she amassed a personal fortune, thanks to the success of her fashion, accessories and cosmetics lines. “The perfume Chanel No5 was introduced in 1921, but then introducing make-up in 1924 and skincare in 1927, she was really ahead of her time,” Cullen says. “It’s something she was doing because she was designing for herself.” Chanel is credited with helping to liberate women from the constricting corsets and long skirts that were de rigeur at the turn of the century, and for popularising softer textiles, such as jersey. “She cuts her garments with high armholes, so you can lift your arms over your head,” Cullen continues. “She thinks about fabrics that are practical, and skirt lengths you can move in.” The exhibition – which was originally staged at Paris’s Palais Galliera in 2020 – highlights the brand’s UK and Ireland connections via British Chanel Limited. “This was an umbrella company set up in 1932 to work with an array of British textile manufacturers,” Cullen explains. “From lace in Nottingham, cotton velvets from Manchester, wools from Huddersfield, and also voiles and silks from Carlisle. “One of the other companies she worked with was the Old Bleach Linen Company, which is based in Randalstown in Northern Ireland.” Split into 10 sections, the exhibition concludes with a recreation of the mirrored staircase from Chanel’s Paris atelier. “Gabrielle Chanel used to sit at the top of the stairs when she was having presentations,” Cullen explains. “The models would descend and this faceted mirror would reflect back the audience’s faces to her, so she could read the mood in the room.” Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto opens at London’s V&A Museum on September 16. Tickets available at vam.ac.uk/chanel. Read More Charity boss speaks out over ‘traumatic’ encounter with royal aide Ukraine war’s heaviest fight rages in east - follow live 6 times Kate has worn London Fashion Week designers Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition

The iconic movie portrays the themes of growing up, maturing, experiencing new emotions, and the importance of friendship

Rapper Sean 'Diddy' Combs shares adorable moment with his children at the 2023 MTV VMAs

This is the fourth Nipah virus outbreak in Kerala state since 2018.

NSYNC reunited at the 2023 MTV Video Music Awards, 10 years after their final public performance at the awards show, and Taylor Swift quizzed the band on what their upcoming career intentions were.

Russia’s main shipyard in Crimea has been struck in a major attack involving 10 cruise missiles, according to Russian officials, with videos overnight appearing to show large explosions at a port in Sevastopol. It comes as Ukraine said it shot down 32 drones out of 44 fired by Russia overnight, with Ukrainian port infrastructure in Odesa described as being the main target. The two sides exchanged heavy air strikes just a couple of hours before Vladimir Putin and North Korea’s Kim Jong-un sat down in Russia’s far east for weapons and trade talks. Follow our Ukraine live blog here The attack on Sevastopol targeted the main facility where Russia builds and repairs ships for its Black Sea Fleet, which has been involved in blockading grain exports from Ukraine. Of a total 10 cruise missiles fired around 3am, seven were downed by Russia’s air defence systems, the country’s defence ministry said. The Russian defence ministry said at least three high-speed boats also targeted the Crimean facility but were destroyed. “As a result of being hit by enemy cruise missiles, two ships under repair were damaged,” the ministry said. The Russia-backed governor of Crimea, Mikhail Razvozhaev, shared a photo from the port as a vessel behind him appeared damaged and an active fire continued to blaze in the background. He said at least 24 people were injured in the strike but did not say if any deaths took place. Videos purporting to show the strike showed three explosions in quick succession in Sevastopol. Russia-backed authorities made the rare confirmation of the successful Ukrainian attacks shortly after local residents in the region posted photos and videos of the shipyard region covered in thick fire. Locals also shared videos of thunderous explosions heard miles away captured on CCTV cameras. The Independent has not verified the authenticity of the videos. There was no immediate comment from Kyiv. Ukraine almost never publicly claims responsibility for attacks inside Russia or on Russian-controlled territory in Ukraine, but has been saying in recent months that destroying Russia’s military infrastructure helps Kyiv’s counteroffensive. Another drone was shot down in Russia’s Tver region, northwest of Moscow, where no casualties were reported, regional authorities said. The Crimean peninsula, illegally annexed from Ukraine by Russia in 2014, has been targeted repeatedly since Russia launched its full-scale invasion of Ukraine in February last year. The Sevastopol shipyard attack appeared to be one of the biggest in recent weeks. The shipyard is of strategic importance to Russia as vessels in its Black Sea Fleet are repaired there. Read More BP boss Bernard Looney resigns over past relationships with colleagues Putin and Kim shake hands for 40 seconds as weapons talks begin – live Higher gas prices likely pushed up inflation in August, though other costs probably slowed

North Korea’s Kim Jong Un's train journey to Russia has a storified history

Logan Paul said, 'I empathise with you Dillon because I understand Twitter for you is like a group therapy session'

'The Kardashians' Season 4 teases a shocking detail

By Leika Kihara TOKYO Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida's expected economic stimulus package will focus on easing the

TAMPERE, Finland--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Sep 13, 2023--