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The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon
The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon
Defining Dishes is a new Indyeats column that explores the significance of food at key moments in our lives. From recipes that have been passed down for generations, to flavours that hold a special place in our hearts, food shapes every part of our lives in ways we might not have ever imagined. I came up with this baked honey-soy salmon dish in the first flat I ever had all to myself, as a master’s student in Stirling, Scotland. I think that’s what makes me feel most proud of it, because it was the first thing I made that made me truly feel like an adult. I was 25 and had been living away from home in Malaysia for nearly five years, and although I never really cooked with fish, I was really craving it, particularly Chinese steamed fish. Salmon was relatively cheap in Scotland, but I always felt that there was something about cooking fish that was very intimidating. It felt like it was too fancy for me. I also feel like it’s still socially acceptable to eat overcooked, dry chicken breast, but eating overcooked fish is just much more unpleasant and no one wants that. But something came over me one day when I saw a fresh salmon fillet with a really good discount in the Tesco clearance aisle. Maybe that should tell you something about me – I don’t know if others would consider that safe – but it looked good and I said, “You know what, maybe today’s the day”. At the time, it so happened that honey-soy salmon was really trending, I had seen it all over the place. I didn’t Google a recipe, I just sort of figured out what flavours could be good on a piece of fish. I made a sauce using soy sauce, Chinese cooking wine and maple syrup (which was gifted to me by one of my very nice friends), poured it on top of the fish and shoved it in the oven, because I didn’t have a steamer then. I did look up how long to cook it for, and Google said 20 minutes. I ate it with steamed rice and to my delight, surprise and relief, it was absolutely delicious. I felt really good about it. It was a real level-up moment in my life. It was the first time I had made a difficult dish, even though the actual labour wasn’t difficult at all and it is essentially a very simple dish. It made me feel like I could do it; I could make grown-up food. At the time, I was 24 or 25-years-old and I had been living away from home for some time, but never without housemates. So I was truly on my own. It was a revelation to realise that I could make Chinese food like this at home. I come from a Malaysian-Indian family. We don’t steam much of anything and so if I wanted steamed fish, I’d have to go to a Chinese restaurant. But now, I didn’t really have to. After that, it became my hyper-fixation meal. I just couldn’t get enough of it and made it all the time – at the peak of my fixation, I ate it three times a week. But I did learn that it does not make for good leftovers. It must be eaten on the day it’s made, otherwise the fishy smell gets a bit unappealing. Once I learned that, I ate it about once a week, and each time I’d experiment with it. I learned the importance of adding aromatics like garlic, ginger, spring onions, coriander and chili. But the key motivator to my experiments was laziness. Could I get away with not slicing things up? What if I don’t want to turn the stove on? How can I cut corners? No matter what kind of nonsense I threw at it, it has always turned out reliably good. The first time I cooked the dish for someone else was when my parents came to visit me from Malaysia. We had just returned from a trip, and they were staying in my flat for a week and it was the first time they came to a place that was truly mine. I remember very clearly cooking the salmon for them because a couple of friends had invited me out to the pub that night and I wanted to go, but I didn’t want to order takeaway for my parents – they were at that stage in their holiday when all Asian parents get grumpy because they haven’t had rice in three days and it was paramount that they ate some immediately. I had 30 minutes before I had to get going to the pub, and I figured that I knew how to cook this dish so well by now that I could get it done in 20 minutes. However, it was also the first time I had scaled a fish. Before, I just cooked the fish with scales and all, I didn’t even realise you had to take them off. For some reason, this time I decided I needed to scale this slab of salmon. I read one Google-recommended article and was like: “Let’s go.” What they don’t tell you is that scales fly. They go absolutely everywhere. And there’s a kind of black coating, like a slime, on the fish that will also go everywhere. I remember my parents peeking their head around the kitchen door to ask if everything was OK, and me just barking: “YA IT’S FINE.” I had to get that thing in the oven NOW, so it had to happen. And you know what? It turned out great. This was the second dish I’ve made for my parents that they’ve said: “Oh, wow.” The first time was for a prawn curry, but this was special because they were so impressed by the efficiency of it and also, it was the first time they realised that wow, I’m an adult, I’ve figured it out. They were used to me making good food, but this was the first practical dish; it’s not me sitting in the kitchen, having to cut a mountain of onions and pounding galangal. Last year, after I moved to Virginia to be with my husband, I made it for him for the first time. It feels really nice to share this part of me with him. It was a piece of myself that I figured out on my own, before married life, and it feels really significant because it was my independence dish. I want everybody to make it. However, I have a bone to pick with fishmongers in the UK. I want to know why they don’t scale the fish you buy unless they’re asked. Surely nobody wants to eat the scales? Just scale it please, thank you very much. And if any readers have suggestions for how I can make my baked salmon skin crispy, I would very much like to know. I still haven’t figured that part out yet. Mallini Kannan is a communications specialist from Malaysia, who now lives in the US with her husband. She still cooks this dish every week. Read More The dish that defines me: Frank Yeung’s prawn wontons The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha The dish that defines me: Eddie Huang’s Taiwanese beef noodle soup Breakfast for dinner and four other things you should cook this week Where to find the best Guinness in London – and how to spot a bad one How sizzling kitchen drama The Bear is spicing up the dating game for chefs
2023-08-15 13:51
Billy Porter criticised for calling Anna Wintour a ‘b****’ over Harry Styles Vogue cover
Billy Porter criticised for calling Anna Wintour a ‘b****’ over Harry Styles Vogue cover
Billy Porter has sparked backlash after he called Anna Wintour a ‘b****’ over her decision to feature Harry Styles as the first-ever solo male cover star of Vogue. In a recent interview with The Telegraph, the Pose actor addressed criticism he initially received after hitting out at Styles for appearing on the cover of the fashion magazine wearing a Gucci dress. Porter - who’s known for championing gender-neutral fashion - explained how he would have better approached Wintour about “uplifting” those whose voices often go unheard in the fashion world. Speaking to the outlet, the 59-year-old actor explained that he participated in a Q&A with the Vogue editor-in-chief months before Styles’ cover was revealed in December 2019. “That b**** said to me at the end: ‘How can we do better?’ And I was so taken off guard that I didn’t say what I should have said,” Porter recalled. Looking back, the Cinderella star wished he had said: “Use your power as Vogue to uplift the voices of the leaders of this de-gendering of fashion movement.” However, Porter noted: “Six months later, Harry Styles is the first man on the cover.” “It’s not Harry Styles’ fault that he happens to be white and cute and straight and fit into the infrastructure that way... I call out the gatekeepers,” he continued, before suggesting that the former One Direction member was “on the cover” of Vogue because he’s “white and he’s straight”. “Non-binary blah blah blah blah. No. It doesn’t feel good to me. You’re using my community - or your people are using my community - to elevate you. You haven’t had to sacrifice anything,” Porter said. Despite the Tony award-winner’s efforts to promote inclusivity in fashion, his comments about Wintour sparked backlash online, as some fans deemed his remarks “misogynistic” towards the fashion editor. “Not him thinking he’s allowed to be misogynistic,” one person wrote on X, formally known as Twitter. “Calling a woman a b**** just because she didn’t do what you wanted will NEVER be okay.” “I’m not one to defend Anna or that cover, but using misogyny to make your case for de-gendering fashion is not smart,” another user tweeted. “I immediately tune out the second a man refers to a woman as a b****,” said someone else. “Your statement is now null”. Another person joked: “Oh he’s never getting invited to the Met Gala ever again.” Meanwhile, one user recalled how Porter recently admitted to selling his house as a result of the Hollywood strikes when they tweeted: “I would not be calling Anna Wintour a b**** if I was currently having to sell my house to be able to live but that’s just me.” In December 2019, Styles became Vogue’s first-ever solo male cover star when he posed on the cover of the magazine in a Gucci dress. Months later, Porter took issue with Vogue’s decision to feature Styles on the cover when he claimed that all the singer had to do to break barriers was “be white and straight”. “I was the first one doing it and now everybody is doing it,” the actor told The Sunday Times in October 2021. “I’m not dragging Harry Styles, but... He doesn’t care, he’s just doing it because it’s the thing to do. This is politics for me. This is my life. “I had to fight my entire life to get to the place where I could wear a dress to the Oscars,” Porter added. “All [Styles] has to do is be white and straight.” After facing criticism for his initial comments, Porter issued an apology to Styles live on The Late Show with Stephen Colbert, telling the camera: “Harry Styles, I apologise to you for having your name in my mouth. “It’s not about you. The conversation is not about you.” The American Horror Story alum went on to explain that the conversation surrounding inclusivity in fashion is “deeper,” as it is actually about “the systems of oppression and erasure of people of colour who contribute to the culture”. After acknowledging that there is a lot to “unpack” regarding the topic, Porter noted that he is willing to do so as long as it is without the interference of “the cancel culture of the internet”. “I’m willing to unpack it, sans the dragging and cancel culture of the internet, because I do not now, nor will ever, adjudicate my life or humanity in sound bites on social media,” he said. “So when you’re ready to have the real conversation, call a b****. Okay? I’m ready to have it!” Porter, who previously told The Sunday Times that he “changed the whole game” when it came to breaking gendered fashion barriers, famously wore a tuxedo dress custom-made by designer Christian Siriano to the 2019 Oscars. As of now, Wintour has not publicly acknowledged Porter’s recent remarks. The Independent has contacted representatives for Billy Porter and Anna Wintour for comment. Read More Billy Porter hits out at Harry Styles and Anna Wintour over Vogue cover: ‘You’re using my community’ Billy Porter reveals he has to sell his house due to Hollywood strikes: ‘You’ve already starved me out’ Billy Porter and husband Adam Smith split after six years of marriage Billy Porter hits out at Harry Styles and Anna Wintour over Vogue cover Supermodels including Naomi Campbell recreate iconic Vogue cover from 1990 Will the gendered separation in clothing ever cease to exist?
2023-08-15 03:22
Maui Wildfires Have Devastated the Hawaiian Island—Here are 5 Organizations That Are Helping
Maui Wildfires Have Devastated the Hawaiian Island—Here are 5 Organizations That Are Helping
Maui residents need a tremendous amount of support right now. Here's how you can help.
2023-08-15 02:47
What’s the Difference Between a Router and a Modem?
What’s the Difference Between a Router and a Modem?
You need to set up both a router and a modem if you want Wi-Fi internet in your home, but there are major differences between the two devices.
2023-08-15 02:18
11 Things You Didn’t Know About Vincent Van Gogh’s ‘The Starry Night’
11 Things You Didn’t Know About Vincent Van Gogh’s ‘The Starry Night’
The famous 1889 painting was the artist's second depiction of a twinkling night sky.
2023-08-15 02:16
Portugal's hostels are world class. But, they say, a new law threatens their existence
Portugal's hostels are world class. But, they say, a new law threatens their existence
Portugal's Mais Habitação ("More Housing") law seeks to tackle the country's spiraling housing crisis. But its broad-brush measures threaten the future of hostels, guesthouses and the entire tourist industry, say those affected.
2023-08-14 22:27
Broadway-bound revival of 'The Wiz' finds its next Dorothy, thanks in part to TikTok
Broadway-bound revival of 'The Wiz' finds its next Dorothy, thanks in part to TikTok
A 24-year-old triple threat who toured in “Hairspray,” competed on “American Idol” and came to the attention of casting agents with her TikTok videos has landed the plumb role of Dorothy in the Broadway-bound production of “The Wiz.”
2023-08-14 21:23
Dog-Loving, Central-Bank-Hating Economist Upends Argentine Polls
Dog-Loving, Central-Bank-Hating Economist Upends Argentine Polls
Javier Milei began and ended his victory speech shouting “Long live freedom, dammit!” and proceeded to thank his
2023-08-14 21:18
Man who spent £12k to look like a dog reveals what his family think
Man who spent £12k to look like a dog reveals what his family think
A man who spent thousands of pounds to look like a dog has revealed what his life is like. In July, the man who goes by Toco on YouTube, went viral after he posted a video of himself walking around Tokyo wearing a realistic Border Collie suit, which cost him £12,500 to have custom made. He explained in the video that his life-long dream was to become a dog and explained that he chose to become a Border Collie due to the breed's size. Now he has shared more about his life as an animal in a series of press interviews. “My desire to be an animal is like a desire to transform, a desire to be something that I am not,” he told the New York Post. Sign up to our free Indy100 weekly newsletter He added that he wears the costume once a week, mostly at home and his family are accepting of him. “The family was surprised, but received it favourably,” he said. 【驚愕】人が犬に変身! リアルな着ぐるみで外を散歩してみた! www.youtube.com “I am very happy that they accepted it.” In a separate interview with the Mirror, he said: “I rarely tell my friends because I am afraid they will think I am weird. “My friends and family seemed very surprised to learn I became an animal. But he told the Daily Mail his colleagues are less accepting. “They think it’s weird that I want to be a dog. For the same reason why I can’t show my real face.” But that won't stop him living the life he loves. “I’m just sad that people can think that,” he said. “I love animals and enjoy play-acting like a collie.” He continued: “This is my hobby, so I will carry on. It makes me happy and other people happy, too.” Have your say in our news democracy. Click the upvote icon at the top of the page to help raise this article through the indy100 rankings.
2023-08-14 19:48
Thinking of buying a new pair of jeans? Breaking down the cost over time might help you decide
Thinking of buying a new pair of jeans? Breaking down the cost over time might help you decide
Shoppers are looking beyond just the price tag of a skirt or a pair of pants in the wake of still stubbornly high inflation
2023-08-14 17:16
Lucozade addict drinks eight bottles a day and says it’s harder to quit than class-A drugs
Lucozade addict drinks eight bottles a day and says it’s harder to quit than class-A drugs
A grandfather is addicted to Lucozade despite having three heart attacks, and said it's harder to give up than class-A drugs. Garry Johnson, 65, began drinking coffee aged 12 and loved the caffeine buzz. The now-retired painter and decorator took cocaine and amphetamines in his teens, and after 15 years of on-off drug use went “cold turkey” when his son Sam was born in 1992. Keen to stay energised, he took up drinking 380ml bottle bottles of Lucozade Original, and now gets through eight a day. He's had the habit for 29 YEARS and it currently costs him around £150 a month. And at today's prices, his nearly three decade habit would have cost him more than £42,800. He had three heart attacks between 2012 and 2014 because of a hereditary heart condition, and doctors encouraged him to ditch caffeinated drinks. He gave up dairy and every other form of caffeine - but he still necks more than three litres of Lucozade a day. He said Lucozade is proving harder to give up than class-A drugs - because of the "after effect - like that lovely feeling in your mouth after you eat an expensive bit of chocolate." Garry, from Basildon, Essex, said: "I took cocaine every day but it was a piece of cake to give up - but I'd find it really hard to ever give up Lucozade. "I love it - not just the taste but the affect on my body makes me feel great. If I do go two or three hours without one, I fancy one... God knows how I'd be after two days.” He stopped using cocaine aged 30, when his son Sam, now 31, was born and went cold turkey because being a new dad was "stimulant enough". He started drinking Red Bull but found himself with migraines, and eventually moved onto Lucozade. He initially drank six a day, but has had eight a day for the last seven years. Now he goes to Tesco every day and buys one or two four-packs - depending how many bottles he already has stacked up in the fridge ready to drink. "I've always needed some kind of stimulant and eventually I realised Lucozade is perfect for me," he said. "After my heart attacks they told me to quit the energy drinks but I recently had new heart tests and my results are better than they've ever been. "I guess I've just found one that suits my body." But Garry said he doesn't even want to give up because it's a "part of his identity" - like a person's favourite shirt or their daily breakfast. He justifies the cost because he doesn't drink alcohol or smoke. He said: "£5 a day - that's less than a pint of beer today in some places." If you or someone you know is suffering from alcohol addiction, you can confidentially call the national alcohol helpline Drinkline on 0300 123 1110 or visit the NHS website here for information about the programmes available to you. If you or someone you know is suffering from drug addiction, you can seek confidential help and support 24-7 from Frank, by calling 0300 123 6600, texting 82111, sending an email or visiting their website here. SWNS Read More What I gained (and lost) by walking 10,000 steps each day for 5 months Husband ‘ruins’ dinner because of his wife’s typo: ‘The worst kind of control freak’ John Whaite says he ‘spent time apart’ from fiancé after ‘falling in love’ with Strictly pro
2023-08-14 14:59
Everything Billy Porter has said about Harry Styles Vogue cover as ‘Pose’ actor re-addresses criticism
Everything Billy Porter has said about Harry Styles Vogue cover as ‘Pose’ actor re-addresses criticism
Billy Porter has re-addressed the criticism he made about Harry Styles becoming US Vogue’s first-ever solo male cover star in 2019. At the time, the former One Direction singer appeared on the cover of the fashion magazine wearing a Gucci dress. Porter, who is best known for starring in the hit TV series Pose, said in an interview The Sunday Times in 2020 that he had several issues with Vogue’s decision to feature Styles, with the actor claiming that all the singer had to do to break barriers was “be white and straight”. “I was the first one doing it and now everybody is doing it,” he said. “I’m not dragging Harry Styles, but... He doesn’t care, he’s just doing it because it’s the thing to do. This is politics for me. This is my life. “I had to fight my entire life to get to the place where I could wear a dress to the Oscars,” Porter added. “All [Styles] has to do is be white and straight.” Porter is known for championing gender-neutral fashion. He wore an iconic tuxedo dress, custom-made by designer Christian Siriano, at the 2019 Oscars. At the Met Gala that same year, he wore a Cleopatra-inspired golden catsuit with wings, and arrived at the event in a golden litter carried by six shirtless men. “Watermelon Sugar” singer Styles frequently performs in gender-neutral clothing, and told US Vogue in his cover story: “Clothes are there to have fun with and experiment with and play with. What’s really exciting is that all of these lines are just kind of crumbling away. There’s so much joy to be had in playing with clothes.” “I’ve never really thought too much about what it means – it just becomes this extended part of creating something,” he added. After making his initial comments, Porter issued an apology to Styles live on The Late Show with Stephen Colbert, telling the camera: “Harry Styles, I apologise to you for having your name in my mouth. “It’s not about you. The conversation is not about you.” Porter went on to explain that the conversation is “deeper,” as it is actually about “the systems of oppression and erasure of people of colour, who contribute to the culture”. After acknowledging that there is a lot to “unpack” regarding the topic, Porter noted that he is willing to do so as long as it is without the interference of “the cancel culture of the internet”. “I’m willing to unpack it, sans the dragging and cancel culture of the internet, because I do not now, nor will ever, adjudicate my life or humanity in sound bites on social media,” he said. “So when you’re ready to have the real conversation, call a b****. OK? I’m ready to have it!” In a new interview with The Telegraph, published on Friday (11 August 2023), Porter explained how he would have better approached Anna Wintour back in 2019. Months before the Harry Styles Vogue cover was revealed, Porter had participated in a Q&A with Anna Wintour in front of Condé Nast staff. “That b**** said to me at the end, ‘How can we do better?’ And I was so taken off guard that I didn’t say what I should have said.” Now, looking back, Porter reflected on what he wished he had said: “Use your power as Vogue to uplift the voices of the leaders of this de-gendering of fashion movement.” However, as Porter reflected: “Six months later, Harry Styles is the first man on the cover.” “It’s not Harry Styles’s fault that he happens to be white and cute and straight and fit into the infrastructure that way … I call out the gatekeepers,” he said. Porter now doesn’t claim to be “the first” to push against gender stereotypes in fashion. “I know David Bowie existed, I know Sylvester existed,” he told the publication. Porter added that Styles is “white and he’s straight”, which explains why “he’s on the cover”. “Non-binary blah blah blah blah. No. It doesn’t feel good to me. You’re using my community – or your people are using my community – to elevate you. You haven’t had to sacrifice anything,” he said. Porter is best known for starring in the hit TV series Pose, for which he was nominated for three Golden Globe Awards and won the 2019 Primetime Emmy Award for Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series. He became the first gay Black man to be nominated and win in any lead acting category at the Primetime Emmys. Read More What I gained (and lost) by walking 10,000 steps each day for 5 months Pink fan who went into labour during concert names newborn son after pop star Woman behind viral ‘not real’ plane tirade says her life has been ‘blown up’ Billy Porter ‘didn’t say what he should have’ to Anna Wintour over Vogue cover Billy Porter says he is ‘back on the market’ after filing for divorce Supermodels including Naomi Campbell recreate iconic Vogue cover from 1990
2023-08-14 14:57
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