Three barbecue recipes to try that aren’t burgers
We all love a good barbecue but sometimes we want something a little more than overcooked burgers and soggy salads. There’s no reason you can’t be adventurous when cooking al fresco, says Farang chef Sebby Holmes. When cooking chicken over a fierce heat, for example, it’s always best to marinate or brine it first. That’s what makes the chicken green curry below so packed full of goodness by the time it hits the barbecue. The same goes for the grilled tiger prawns and citrus som tam salad. A widely eaten salad in Asia, the som tam’s clementine adds a natural sweetness to the juices of the grilled prawns, making this a stand out dish. When cooked over an open fire, aubergine has an amazing ability to transform into a smoky, soft bombshell of flavour. The smoky aubergine, pickled cucumber and sesame salad with runny duck eggs is the perfect accompaniment to a barbecue, and also delicious served with steamed rice as a main. Barbecue chicken green curry When cooking chicken over a fierce heat such as a barbecue, it’s always best to marinate or brine it first. Now, you can honestly spend a lifetime researching the brining process and some people do, however we don’t have time for that! Suffice to say that by leaving raw meat in contact with salt and/or sugar and moisture before cooking, you allow it to take on flavour. This recipe uses the green curry paste to marinate the chicken, meaning it’s packed full of goodness by the time it hits the barbecue. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 20g coconut oil (vegetable oil can also be used instead) 100g green curry Payst 3g kaffir lime leaves, torn a little to release their flavour 10ml fish sauce (if using Payst no seasoning is necessary as it is pre-seasoned) 10-15g palm sugar (if using Payst no seasoning is necessary as it is pre-seasoned) 200ml chicken stock 1 tin coconut cream 4 free-range chicken thighs on the bone (400-600g total weight) 100g new potatoes, sliced in half 80g baby sweetcorn, sliced at an angle 80g green beans, sliced in half lengthways 10g krachai wild ginger, peeled and julienned (if you can’t find this, use the larger, more common ginger) 10g Thai sweet basil A piece of wood for smoking on the BBQ (my favourite is hickory) Method: Heat the coconut oil in a large saucepan over a high heat, then add the green curry paste and kaffir lime leaves and stir regularly until the paste begins to split like scrambled eggs – this will take a few minutes. You will notice that the smell of the ingredients changes from raw to fragrant. At this point, add 10ml fish sauce and allow it to cook into the paste for 1 minute (don’t add too much as it is strong and you can always add, but never take away). Next, add the sugar and cook for a minute or so until melted and beginning to caramelise – this is noticeable as the paste begins to darken. Now it’s time to loosen the curry with liquids. Add half the chicken stock and 100ml of the coconut cream to the pan, then remove from the heat and allow to cool. When cool, use a little of the curry to marinate the chicken thighs; use enough to coat them, then refrigerate the chicken to allow the flavours to infuse for a minimum of 2 hours, but ideally overnight. Light the barbecue and wait for the coals to glow red. Place the piece of wood onto the coals and allow to set alight and begin to smoke. At this point, add the chicken thighs skin-side up and cook for 3-4 minutes on one side, lowering the BBQ lid so that the meat is engulfed by the smoke. Turn the chicken pieces over and repeat the process until the skin is crispy and golden brown and the chicken is piping hot. Next, return the remaining green curry to the pan and bring back to a simmer. Add any excess from the marinated chicken, then add the remaining stock. Add the potatoes and cook for about 8 minutes until they begin to soften. Add the sweetcorn and green beans and cook for a further 5 minutes until all the vegetables are softened but still retain a little bite. Add the hot chicken thighs, the remaining coconut cream and the krachai and basil. Check you are happy with the seasoning, add a little more fish sauce, sugar or coconut milk if needed and serve immediately. This dish is best served with steamed jasmine rice. Grilled tiger prawns and citrus som tam salad Som tam has fast become one of the most widely eaten and popular salads to come out of Asia. It originates from Lao, but now has many well-known variations from all over. This version is one I created for Farang. The use of clementine, which adds a natural sweetness, along with the juices of the grilled prawns, makes it a stand out dish. Try it with some sticky rice and some of our ginger and green sweet chilli dipping sauce for a proper feed. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 8-10 prawns, cleaned, deveined and outer shells removed 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tsp vegetable oil 4 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tsp dried shrimp A pinch of Maldon sea salt 1 tbsp peanuts, fried or roasted 3 red bird’s-eye chillies (more if you like it spicy) 10g green beans, chopped in 2 30g cherry tomatoes 200g shredded green papaya (can be found in most Asian supermarkets) 10-15g palm sugar 20ml thick tamarind water Juice of 2 limes ½ lime, chopped with the zest on Juice of 1 clementines Method: Coat the prawns in the fish sauce and oil, then place them on a hot grill for 2-3 minutes until the side in contact with the heat has turned pink. Turn the prawns over and repeat on the other side until they are hot throughout. Remove from the heat and set aside. Pound the garlic and dried shrimp in a mortar and pestle, using the salt as an abrasive. Then pound in the peanuts to break them up just enough to mix through the salad; be careful not to over-pound them or they will turn into peanut butter. Next, one by one, add the chillies, green beans, tomatoes, grilled prawns and papaya to the mortar, bruising them as you go to distribute the flavours. Add the palm sugar, tamarind water, lime juice, chopped lime and the juice of 1 clementine. Give the salad a final bruising to ensure that all ingredients are packed full of the flavoursome dressing, making sure that the palm sugar has completely dissolved in the dressing, otherwise someone will get an unexpected sweet mouthful. Taste the dressing to check that it suits your tastes – it should be sweet, salty, sour and spicy with a hint of bitterness from the lime zest. Adjust the seasoning if necessary, then serve. Smoky aubergines, pickled cucumber and sesame salad with runny duck eggs When cooked over an open fire, aubergine has an amazing ability to transform into a smoky, soft bombshell of flavour. This salad, a perfect accompaniment to a barbecue and also delicious served with steamed jasmine rice as a main, uses a runny egg to contribute to the dressing. I’ve used Thai purple aubergines, which are thinner and easier to grill evenly in a short time. You can also use ordinary aubergines, but they may need a little longer on the fire. Serve drizzled in our burnt chilli dipping sauce to add an extra level of flavour. Serves: 2 Ingredients: 4 Thai purple aubergines (these can be found in most Asian supermarket, however, the larger, more popular, aubergines can be used instead) 2 duck eggs 10g jasmine rice 10g mint, torn 10g coriander 10g Thai shallots, peeled and thinly sliced (banana shallots can be used) 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds For the pickle: 2 tbsp caster sugar ½ tsp table salt 50ml distilled white vinegar ¼ cucumber, thinly sliced For the dressing: Juice of 3 limes Juice of 2 clementine 2 tsp fish sauce (seaweed sauce can be used as a vegetarian substitute) ½ tsp chilli powder (a little less if you don’t like things too spicy) 2 tsp caster sugar 3 tsp tamarind water Method: Light the barbecue and place the whole aubergines directly onto the hot coals, or near the hottest part of the grill if you’re using a gas barbecue. Keep a close eye on them and turn them over frequently, ensuring that the heat from the coals is distributed evenly. The aubergines are ready when they are soft to the touch, with charred and blistered skins. When cool enough to handle, peel off the skin. If you are not using a barbecue, crank the oven right up to full blast and bake the aubergines until the skins are charred and the flesh is soft – this will take 20-25 minutes. Meanwhile, soft-boil then peel the duck eggs. An average-sized egg takes 6-7 minutes to cook on a rolling boil. I cook mine in salted water, then transfer them into ice-cold water with a splash of olive oil. If you peel the eggs in the water, the oil gets between the shell and the flesh, making them easier to peel. Once peeled, set aside at room temperature. Put the rice in a dry frying pan and lightly toast on a medium heat, shaking the pan constantly until the grains have turned golden brown and release a lovely aroma. Pound the rice into a powder in a granite mortar and pestle, or use a spice grinder. Make sure to grind the rice to a powder as it will be used to add texture to the salad; it will be crunchy if the grains are too coarse. Next, make the pickle. In a medium saucepan, gently heat the sugar, salt and vinegar together with 50ml cold water until the sugar has dissolved. Be sure to keep stirring so that the sugar dissolves without heating the water too much. Remove from the heat and add the cucumber, then refrigerate. Make the dressing. In a bowl, mix the lime and clementine juices, the fish sauce, chilli powder, sugar and tamarind water. Taste and adjust the dressing to cater to your own taste buds: it should be sweet, salty, sour and hot, with an edge towards the salt and citrus. When you’re happy with the flavour, add the aubergines, mint, coriander, shallots and the pickled cucumber (straining any pickling juices before adding), then gently fold together, leaving the aubergines whole if you can be delicate enough. Put the aubergines on a serving plate and place the duck eggs on top. Using the tip of a knife, pierce a hole in the eggs and break them open with your fingers, releasing the runny yolks so that they ooze into the salad. Sprinkle the salad with the rice and sesame seeds and add a tiny pinch of salt onto the runny egg yolks as a surprise burst of flavour. Serve with steamed jasmine rice for an extra fill.
2023-07-22 13:50
Imad Alarnab: In The Jungle, food restored our faith
Food can bring people comfort in the darkest times, and for Imad Alarnab, this time came when he was stranded as a refugee in Calais for more than two months. A hot plate had been donated, people collected leftovers from supermarkets, and having been a successful chef back in Damascus – with three restaurants, and a string of cafes and juice bars – Alarnab did what he did best, night after night, he cooked. “It was just something I felt like I needed to do, because you get to make a lot of people happy. Especially at that time, they needed something to be happy about,” says the 45-year-old, who would feed as many as 400 people at a time. The overcrowded camp that became known as The Jungle was close by, but Alarnab says it was too terrifying and overcrowded, so he and a group of several other Syrians slept on the steps of a church instead. And it was here he cooked the food of home – adapted, of course, depending on what they had. “To have a decent warm meal – for people whose lives have been on hold, they can’t cross to safety – was a big deal for all of us,” says the father-of-three. In fact, it was the first time he’d cooked for lots of people since all of his businesses were bombed within a week in 2012, in the country’s civil war, and this was the moment hope returned. “I think it restored all of the faith that things could, and would, get better,” Alarnab writes in his debut cookbook, Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. By July 2015, he’d made the painful decision to leave his wife and three daughters in Damascus to make the treacherous journey via Lebanon, Greece and North Macedonia, to the UK, where they had relatives. With his children too young to make the journey, the family planned to join once he’d been granted asylum. “If I had any other choice, I would have definitely taken it. [Fleeing] wasn’t the easiest but it was somehow the safest,” he says. “When I was in Syria during the war, people were saying, ‘It’s not safe to go out of the house because maybe you’re going to die’. But I needed to feed my family, if I stayed in the house they would die from hunger. There’s no good choice or bad choice, but maybe it’s the only one you can make. “When I was leaving Damascus, my oldest daughter made me promise I would see her within one year. I said, ‘Yes, I promise,’ but I wasn’t really sure if I was going to keep that promise or not.” And during the three months before he reached the UK – walking hundreds of miles on foot, on train, in the back of cars, on push bike, at the mercy of smugglers, with false IDs and the kindness of strangers – there were moments of doubt, like when he was crammed in the back of a lorry in Turkey for seven hours. “There were about 95 of us, I felt it was a stupid decision, risking my life so much. I believe the driver was so scared, or maybe drunk – the speed was absolutely scary. I thought we were not going to make it.” His journey ended eventually by using a fake passport to cross the Channel in October 2015 (the moving, often harrowing, story is weaved through his new cookbook), and first finding work illegally in a car wash, where he also slept as an overnight security guard, sending money home. After his family were able to emigrate (just under the year he’d promised his daughter) someone introduced him to the Cook For Syria scheme – and soon he was hosting super clubs at his house. By May 2021, he’d opened his London restaurant, Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. His first cookbook is a combination of dishes served up at the restaurant and his late mother’s recipes. “Almost every single dish is somehow related to my mother – I keep seeking her approval in everything I do in life, but especially with cooking,” he says. It was his mum, Summer, who first taught him to cook. “Even if you create your own recipes, somehow you will [always] be inspired by your first teacher”. She died very suddenly while Alarnab was living alone in a caravan in west London. Syrian food at its heart is “simple, first of all, and affordable for everyone”, he says. “We use a lot of mild spices, not very hot spices.” They’re mostly things you’ll know; “cumin, mint, garlic, nothing really special about it. [but] you put it together in a special way”. Middle Eastern in identity, much of it might feel familiar; tabbouleh, hummus, baklawa; while traditional dishes include buttered halibut, jaj bailfurn (grilled chicken thighs) and kippeh (lamb and bulgur wheat dumplings). Lunch is typically a feast of many dishes. “We’re a family of five and we never ever have one dish for lunch,” says Alarnab. “And we don’t throw anything away.” Before the war – which began as an uprising against President Bashar al-Assad in 2011 but has since involved a complex number of groups fighting one another, including so-called Islamic State, leaving at least 11 million people displaced – Alarnab was one of the lucky ones, he says. “We had a comfortable life, but most people in Syria were suffering. When you have a dictatorship for more than 50 years, of course people will be suffering. You cannot explain life without freedom to someone who’s lived all of their life with it. “People keep asking me silly questions – ‘Why did you have to go to 10 different countries to come to the UK? You could just get a plane ticket straight from Lebanon to Heathrow’. No, it doesn’t work like that. As a Syrian, my passport takes me to three countries – war zone countries. Even if I wanted to go to every country supporting Assad, I’d still need a visa.” Once the fighting started, food, that once brought him so much joy, lost all meaning. “I don’t know how to describe it, but the food tasted like blood. I know it’s disgusting, but nothing tasted the same. When you live in fear for your family, when your daughters are not safe to go to school, food will taste [bad], nothing can make you happy.” Cooking Syrian food now makes him feel “connected” to his home country, of course, “but it also makes me feel part of this unique community in the UK”. Arriving in London, he says: “I felt safe, I felt ‘I can be different, I can be myself, no one cares’. Everyone’s so different, it makes all of us lookalike.” Even after starting from scratch in a new country after losing everything, with a highly-acclaimed restaurant and now a cookbook, he’s most proud of his daughters. His eldest is studying at Warwick University after gaining straight As, his middle child is a talented artist. “The youngest [13] is the naughty one still,” he laughs. “But you can feel they appreciate their life – they are so happy about it.” ‘Imad’s Syrian Kitchen’ by Imad Alarnab (HQ; £26). Read More The National Portrait Gallery’s new restaurant is fabulous upgrade The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha 3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Get set for Wimbledon with top pastry chef’s strawberry recipes Pinch of Nom: Healthy eating doesn’t have to cost the earth
2023-07-19 13:54
3 TikTok-approved recipes for picnic season
Grab your baskets and your blankets because it’s National Picnic Month (AKA it’s summer guys, just get out there). Nothing says dining al fresco in Britain than a sausage roll, but the recipe for honey and mustard sausage rolls below is so incredibly good you’ll want to make them all the time. The same goes for sandwiches, as long as they’re not soggy. Sometimes you dream about sandwiches, hoping they’ll be as delicious as you dreamed. Well, the mortadella, pesto, burrata focaccia sandwich with garlic confit aioli one below is. It has crisp pesto focaccia, pesto, burrata, mortadella, rocket and a homemade garlic confit aioli. Don’t forget dessert! These elderflower and raspberry jellies are so easy to make, transport and, most importantly, devour. Honey and mustard sausage rolls These honey and mustard sausage rolls are so incredibly good you’ll want to make them all the time. We’re using Asda’s Extra Special Orange Blossom Honey sourced from bees that feed on orange blossom in Spain and Mexico giving it a sweet citrus scent. Stirred into the filling and mixed with some fresh thyme to drizzle over the hot pastry when they come out of the oven. Just heaven! Serves: 6-8 Prep time: 35 minutes | Cook time: 25-30 minutes Ingredients: For the filling: 1 pack of Asda’s Extra Special Cumberland Sausages 1 heaped tbsp grainy mustard 1 tbsp Asda Honey Blossom Honey 2 tbsp chopped parsley Salt and pepper 1 sheet ready rolled puff pastry 1 egg, beaten Sprinkle of sesame seeds For the drizzle: 5 sprigs of thyme, leaves only 1 tbsp honey For the dip: 3 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp grainy mustard Method: Preheat the oven to 200C. Line a baking tray with parchment. Remove the sausages from their skins and place the sausage meat in a bowl. Add the mustard, honey, parsley and season well. Stir to combine. Place the pastry on a board and cut in half lengthways. Divide the pork mixture in two. Place one portion of the meat on the long edge of one piece of pastry and shape into a sausage roll shape, pinching the seam and rolling it over so the seam is underneath. Repeat with the other roll. Brush with some beaten egg. Slice into portions and scatter with sesame seeds. Place on a baking tray and bake for 25-30 mins until golden and cooked through. For the drizzle, heat the honey gently in a pan for a minute and add the chopped thyme. Drizzle over the hot sausage rolls just before serving and serve with the mustard mayo dip. Enjoy! Mortadella, pesto, burrata focaccia sandwich with garlic confit aioli Sometimes you dream about sandwiches, hoping they’ll be as delicious as you dreamed. Well, this one is. It has crisp pesto focaccia, pesto, burrata, mortadella, rocket and a homemade garlic confit aioli. Serves: 1 Prep time: 15 minutes Ingredients: For the garlic confit aioli: 10 garlic confit cloves 1 cup garlic confit olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 egg Pinch of flakey sea salt For the sandwich: 2 slices pesto focaccia 1 x burrata 4 tbsp green basil pesto 75g Italian mortadella 25g wild rocket Method: Make the garlic confit aioli: Place all ingredients into a glass container or jug that is just wide enough to fit a hand blender. Blend all ingredients together while slowly incorporating all of the oil. Continue until you have a thick consistency. Store in an airtight container or jar in the fridge for up to 3 days. Assemble the sandwich: Cut your focaccia into thirds lengthways. Slice 1 piece of the focaccia in half. Drizzle cut side with olive oil and toast in a pan until golden. Assemble your sandwich by beginning with a layer of the garlic aioli, a spoon of pesto, followed by slices of the mortadella, burrata, torn in two, and rocket, finished with a pinch of salt and pepper. Top with the other half of the focaccia and cut in half. Enjoy! Elderflower and raspberry jellies These elderflower and raspberry jellies were always on the menu when I catered for parties and people always chose them. They were so popular, and they’re so easy to make. Serves: 6 Prep time: 15 minutes | Cooling time: 4 hours overnight Ingredients: 8 sheets leaf gelatin 350ml elderflower cordial 1 punnet raspberries Cream or ice cream (to serve) Method: Soak the gelatin in cold water for a few minutes, then drain. Pour 100ml of boiling water over the gelatin and stir to fully dissolve. Allow to cool for a couple of minutes, then stir in the elderflower cordial and 250ml of cold water. (I always wet the inside of the jelly mould if I’m planning on turning the jellies out afterwards before I add the jelly mixture). Divide the raspberries into glasses or ramekins or a large glass bowl and pour over the liquid. Cover and put in the fridge to set for at least 4 hours-it works best if left overnight. (If you want the berries to be suspended in the jellies, pour a third of the mixture into the moulds and set in the fridge, then add the berries so they lie on top of the set layer and pour over the remaining mixture). To remove from the mould, if using, dip the bottom briefly into a bowl of hot water, cover with a slightly larger plate and with one confident movement, invert the mould so that the jelly lands neatly onto the plate. Serve the jelly with cream or ice cream. Read More The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Get set for Wimbledon with top pastry chef’s strawberry recipes Pinch of Nom: Healthy eating doesn’t have to cost the earth ‘Deliciously indulgent’ one-pot chilli mac and cheese Can’t decide between a cookie or a brownie? Now you don’t have to
2023-07-18 13:59
The dish that defines me: Alex Outhwaite’s Vietnamese bun cha
Defining Dishes is a new IndyEats column that explores the significance of food at key moments in our lives. From recipes that have been passed down for generations, to flavours that hold a special place in our hearts, food shapes every part of our lives in ways we might not have ever imagined. I got my first job in Hanoi as an EFL (English as a Foreign Language) teacher and taught a kindergarten class at the weekends. The school had a mix of Vietnamese and other EFL teachers, so I was able to make a lot of really great friends who were very keen to educate all of us foreigners on the best local food. On my first day at the school, they took me to a bun cha stall nearby that was really, really popular and it was always full. They served it with strips of pork belly, which is uncommon. Quite often, you’d have to wait a little while to get a seat, but it was always worth it. Once, I saw a bride and groom dining there in their wedding outfits! My favourite thing about bun cha is the smell of smoky meat coming off the open-air grill. It would fill the air around you while you sat and waited for your food to arrive. That delicious smell is what I miss the most when I try to make it for myself in the UK but it’s really hard to recreate indoors. The way my Vietnamese friends taught me to eat it was to pour the nuoc cham – a sauce made from fish sauce, sugar, lime juice and water – all over the dish and mix it all up, but I know other people just dip the meat in it. I’m sure there’s no one correct or incorrect way to do it, but the sauce is so delicious, why wouldn’t you want to soak the whole thing in it? I spent one year in Hanoi and moved back to my parent’s house in York, where I grew up, in 2011. By this time, I’d done a few embarrassing TV adverts and little acting jobs in Hanoi, and I went on to do quite a lot of presenting work on little local channels and corporate videos. Then I came across a Sainsbury’s magazine, I think, that was running a competition by the British Herb Association, which I’d never heard of before. They were looking for people to cook a recipe using British-grown herbs. I decided to try making a bun cha at home by adapting a recipe by New Zealand-born US chef Bobby Chin. I’m sure I butchered it and Anglicised it (all those terrible things) because I’d never made it before. But I did use some fresh British herbs, coriander and mint that my parents grew in their garden, which was quite sweet. I filmed myself making it and submitted it for the competition, and in the end, I was invited to take part in the final. I’d really like to highlight that I am not a chef. I like my food and I enjoy cooking, but I’ve never pretended to be a chef. Anyway, I went to London and participated in the cook-off against two other ladies and was judged by Masterchef’s John Torode. Of course I’d seen him on TV quite a lot – he was fairly intimidating, to be honest. He was very friendly off-camera, but he plays a part when they’re rolling. I remember he came up to me and said: “Oh, you obviously much prefer cooking in your own home than in a professional kitchen.” I said: “Well, yes, I’m not a professional.” He was very complimentary about my dish, although he did highlight that there was a lack of smokiness in the meat, which was a very fair point. But I won the competition somehow and that’s how it linked me to getting my first proper TV presenting gig. I saw an advert for a TV channel in Mumbai that was searching for a presenter who could also cook, so I sent off my details and a video of me making bun cha in the competition. A couple of days later, they got in touch with me and seemed quite pleased by my enthusiasm. I was flown out to Delhi just two weeks later. It seemed too good to be true, but I started presenting on a show called Quest, which was initially only broadcast in Mumbai on Travelxp. It’s now an international channel that broadcasts in about 30 countries. The show had me visiting chefs and families around India and learning about “forgotten dishes” that people were rediscovering and cooking. It was an incredible opportunity and I feel very fortunate to be able to do what I do. Maybe I should be thanking Sainsbury’s magazine. But it’s bun cha and Hanoi that I have the most love for. When I make it now, I have this image in my mind of the place that I would go with my teacher friends and I’m doing my very best to emulate that flavour. I’m sure if I went back now and tried the authentic version again, I’d think: “God, I’m just butchering it.” But you know, I’m doing my best. Alex Outhwaite is a travel TV presenter. She has hosted several travel shows, including ‘The Wanderer’ on Prime Video. Read More It’s easier to make baklava at home than you might think Get set for Wimbledon with top pastry chef’s strawberry recipes Pinch of Nom: Healthy eating doesn’t have to cost the earth
2023-07-17 13:57
What are pani puri? The much-loved Indian street snack known by different names across the country
Today’s Google Doodle celebrates one of India’s most famous street food snacks – the bite-sized pani puri. The dish is one of India’s most popular street foods and can incorporate many different flavours depending on the ingredients used and where in the country it is being made. The popular snack consists of a crispy, deep-fried shell that is cracked open on one side and stuffed with any combination of potatoes, chickpeas, spices or chillies dunked in flavoured water. The tiny snack is best eaten quickly in rounds, with customers dipping the shell into the water and popping it whole into their mouths before the next shell is offered. The sweet and savoury dish goes by different names in different parts of India. In capital Delhi, it is known as gol gappa, while in West Bengal, Bihar and Nepal, the snack is called phuchka. In southwestern Maharashtra, it is known by the staple pani puri, while in northern Haryana state, it is called paani patashi. In central Madhya Pradesh, the snack goes by fulki and in Uttar Pradesh, it’s called pani ke batashe or padake. In the northeastern state of Assam, locals call it the phuska, while Gujaratis call it pakodi. In parts of Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh, locals call the snack Gup-chup. The process of making the humble pani puri is simple and the filling can be made according to the preference of the person eating it. The options usually consist of a potato stuffing, mashed chickpeas stuffing, boondi or tiny fried gram flour balls. A hot ragda stuffing can also be used, which is a curry or gravy preparation made from dried white peas, spices and seasonings. The server pokes a hole in the deep-drief hollow shell called the puri and fills the stuffing in it. The flavoured water, or pani in Hindi, used to dunk the filling is made either of tamarind, asafoetida, mint, garlic, lemon or jaljeera – a type of flavoured water made with chilli, cumin (jeera) and water (jal, which is another word for water) – and is served to customers one by one. One plate of pani puri usually consists of six to eight bites and costs between Rs 20-40 (£0.20-£0.40). The staple Indian snack is available in almost every north Indian restaurant locally and has only grown in popularity abroad. London’s high end Indian restaurants, like Dishoom, Roti Chai, Indian Accent and Gunpowder, also serve the dish. The snack is best enjoyed when the flavoured water is served cold. Today’s Google Doodle features a bespoke video game in which players “serve” customers’ orders for pani puri with different fillings. Google said 12 July marked the anniversary of a World Record set in 2015 for the most flavours of pani puri offered by one restaurant. It was claimed by eatery Indori Zayka in Indore, Madhya Pradesh. Read More How to shop at Borough Market in the summer ‘We call them Picky Bits’: Nigella Lawson responds to viral ‘Girl Dinner’ trend Get set for Wimbledon with these strawberry recipes Google Doodle celebrates pani puri, the much-loved Indian street snack Indian food influencer’s digestive mocktail recipe mocked online Ali Ahmed Aslam, chicken tikka masala ‘inventor’, dies at age 77
2023-07-13 15:57
Get set for Wimbledon with these strawberry recipes
Wimbledon is underway and that means the classic British summertime treat of strawberries and cream is ready to be dished out across the courts, with a staggering 1.92 million strawberries expected to be consumed during the tournament. When buying strawberries, we are attracted to the deeper coloured fruits as they are the ripest, but it’s worth being mindful of when you plan to eat them as fully ripe strawberries are best served the same day. Always check the bottom of the punnet to see if the strawberries are starting to bruise as this is a sign they are beginning to be past their best. When it comes to cooking, if you overcook strawberries, you can get a jam-like taste rather than a freshness, so it’s best to use recipes that don’t require a lot of heat and keep it simple for a more refined flavour. Simple touches like adding a dash of lemon will help the strawberries to pack a punch and elevate any recipe. I also like to add a crack of pink peppercorn to macerated strawberries in whatever I’m using them for, this helps enhance the floral notes of the strawberries, as when you eat them the pepper helps open up the nasal passage. Final-worthy dessert: strawberry shortcake Ingredients: For the shortcake: 115g cake flour 5g baking powder 5g salt 3 eggs, separated 1 pinch cream of tartar 175g sugar 15g unsalted butter, softened 5g vanilla extract 125ml milk For the topping: 500g strawberries 1 lemon 75g caster sugar 1 pinch of ground pink peppercorns Method: For the shortcake: Sift and combine all the dry ingredients, then rub the butter into the flour mix. Whisk the egg whites and sugar together until they form medium peaks. Combine the egg yolks and milk with the dry ingredients. Separate into equal-sized balls and bake at 180ºC until golden. For the topping: Quarter or roughly dice the strawberries, cover with the sugar, pepper and lemon zest and leave to sit for 15-20 minutes in the fridge. To serve: Place a few of the shortcakes at the bottom of a bowl or on a large plate. Top with a dollop or two of whipped cream or thick yoghurt, cover with the fresh strawberries and drizzle with the strawberry syrup. Finish by crumbling a shortcake or two over the top. For extra flair: Baste the halves of two peaches and sear in a pan with beurre noisette and a sprig of thyme on a medium heat. Serve on the side of the strawberry shortcake. Quickly served treat: brioche with passion fruit and strawberries Ingredients: For the fruit mix: 500g strawberries 8 fresh passion fruits 60g caster sugar 1 pinch salt For the topping: 200g mascarpone 3 tbsp honey Zest of 1 lemon Brioche to serve Method: Scoop the passion fruit seeds into a small pan and bring to a gentle simmer on a low heat. Add the sugar and the salt and simmer for about 5-6 minutes, until the seeds are shiny. Remove from the stove and allow to cool for five minutes, then pour over your halved strawberries. Place them in the fridge to marinate. To serve: Slice the brioche with a generous thickness, and toast in a pan over a medium heat with a knob of butter, until golden. Flip and repeat. Mix the mascarpone, honey, and lemon zest, spread over the brioche and add a generous amount of the strawberry fruit mix. For extra flair: Roast a handful of pistachios and crush them slightly. The green of the nut against the rich red of the strawberries will add a punch of colour. Read More The Norwegian sparkling wine aged at the bottom of the sea I was an air fryer sceptic – now I can’t stop using it Ditch Deliveroo – make these healthy, 30-minute pizzas instead Three quick and easy vegan fakeaway recipes The dish that defines me: Eddie Huang’s Taiwanese beef noodle soup How to cook kohlrabi
2023-07-11 13:56
How to make protein pancakes without flour
These protein-packed, flourless pancakes can be made without the collagen, but the extra hit of amino acids in the morning is ideal for muscle-building and hunger control,” says functional nutritionist Pauline Cox. “When bananas are green, they have less sugar content… you decide how green you want to go. Delicious hot or cold!” Green banana pancakes Makes: 12 Ingredients: 1 greenish banana 2 eggs 1 tbsp collagen peptides (optional) ½ tsp ground cinnamon Coconut oil or ghee, for frying Natural yoghurt, fresh berries, chopped nuts and seeds, to serve Method: 1. Add the banana to a blender with the eggs, collagen (if using) and cinnamon, then combine to create a smooth batter. 2. Heat a small amount of coconut oil or ghee in a frying pan, and when the pan is hot, add 3-4 spoons of batter to create 3-4 mini pancakes. Cook for 2-4 minutes until golden in colour before flipping over to cook on the other side. 3. Serve with natural yoghurt, fresh berries, chopped nuts and seeds for extra goodness. ‘Hungry Woman’ by Pauline Cox (Ebury Press, £27). Read More Ditch Deliveroo – make these healthy, 30-minute pizzas instead Three quick and easy vegan fakeaway recipes The dish that defines me: Eddie Huang’s Taiwanese beef noodle soup Nutritionist explains how women can eat to help balance hormones The only three recipes you need to seize the summer How to shop at Borough Market in the summer
2023-07-05 13:47
Nutritionist explains how women can eat to help balance hormones
Some healthy eating principles apply to just about everyone – drinking enough water and consuming plenty of fresh fruit and veg, for example. But when it comes to hormones, a lot of diet advice neglects to mention the vast difference between women’s and men’s health. “Women are very under-represented in research, mainly because we have a menstrual cycle,” says functional nutritionist and author Pauline Cox. “My passion and mission is to empower women with the information and knowledge that can radically change their immediate health and their long-term health.” Cox, 43, who started her career as a physiotherapist before becoming a nutritionist, now mainly works with groups of women online and has just released her second book, Hungry Woman: Eating for Good Health, Happiness and Hormones. “I felt there was a lot of information that could be shared with women to help them understand their hormones, and understand that we don’t have to get frustrated with ourselves and fight our female physiology.” At the heart of the issue is the balance (or lack thereof) between oestrogen and progesterone levels. “When our progesterone levels are low, our oestrogen can become dominant, and that’s when we start to see things like PMS, heavy periods, painful periods, flooding at the beginning of our periods,” says Cox, who lives in Somerset. “A lot o women accept that as part of their monthly cycle, but when we bring our progesterone levels back up, it helps to balance the effect of oestrogen.” Here, she explains five ways women can tailor their diets to keep their hormones in check… 1. Look after your liver “Oestrogen is a driving-growth hormone,” Cox explains, using the analogy of grass growing on a lawn to explain how the two hormones interact. “Progesterone is like the lawnmower. It comes along and it keeps the grass in check. When we lose progesterone, oestrogen gets out of control.” That’s why it’s important that our bodies are able to clear oestrogen efficiently through the liver, gut and bowels. “How much oestrogen we clear can be influenced by what we eat and how we live,” says Cox. “There’s a lot of cruciferous in the book – cauliflower, broccoli, these are really great vegetables to support liver detoxification.” 2. Add fermented foods To deliver beneficial bacteria to your gut, try including fermented foods like pickled vegetables, kefir, kombucha or natural yoghurt as part of your daily diet. “Our gut diversity declines as we age and microbiome diversity has been linked with longevity and good health,” says Cox, who suggests just a tablespoon of sauerkraut a day can make a difference. “These are easy wins… to maximise our longevity and optimise our gut-brain axis, which is incredibly important.” 3. Avoid ultra-processed foods There’s been a lot of talk recently about how detrimental ultra-processed foods are, and that includes the effect on hormone levels. “When we’re eating high sugar, processed foods, our inflammatory levels go up and our cortisol level goes up, which robs us of progesterone,” Cox says. Plus, filling up with these empty calories – as delicious as they often are – means we have less room for nutritious foods. “They can often be devoid of nutrients, so you’re not getting the nutrients you need for building hormones and supporting hormonal health like magnesium, zinc, B vitamins, and omega three fatty acids.” 4. Create an eating window It’s not just what you eat, it’s when. Cox recommends having an ‘eating window’ during the day that ends around 6pm, so that there’s a gap of a few hours before you go to bed. “When your blood sugars go up at night, your kidneys have to kick in to try and remove this excess blood sugar, which then means you’re up in the night urinating,” she says. “A lot of women associate this with drinking a lot before bed, but actually eating late at night can also be for that reason.” Choosing meals that are nutritious and satisfying is the next step. “Within that window, start becoming a bit more conscious of your carbs and upping your protein,” she continues. “So you’re feeling full, your body’s getting all the amino acids it needs, and you’re maybe not having so much of the grab-and-go food like the sandwiches, the pasta, the crisps.” 5. Monitor your magnesium “Most women are sub-clinically deficient in magnesium,” Cox explains, which can cause insomnia, and the risk increases with age. “As we get to about the age of 40, we absorb less magnesium than we would have in our 20s.” Diet also plays a role: “If we have high blood sugars and levels of inflammation when we’re stressed, we lose magnesium.” She recommends taking a magnesium glycinate or bisglycinate supplement before bed to increase your chance of getting a good night’s sleep. “The glycine part of that helps to reduce your core body temperature, which is what the body wants when it’s going to bed,” she says. “That compound also helps get you into what’s called REM sleep, which is the sleep where you’re consolidating memories and learning.” ‘Hungry Woman’ by Pauline Cox (Ebury Press, £27). Read More From hairdressers to aloe vera: What will Diet Coke join as a ‘possible cancer risk’ Three quick and easy vegan fakeaway recipes The only three recipes you need to seize the summer How to shop at Borough Market in the summer
2023-07-03 21:20
How to shop at Borough Market in the summer
Food markets fizz with a very particular kind of energy in the summer months. That’s as true anywhere as at Borough Market where the energy somehow hits me as I’m still walking the stairs up from London Bridge tube, way before I even see the market gates. It’s not just the sun’s moodlift that makes things palpably different in the summer than at any other time of year – it’s the distinctive culmination of the summer vibes that marketgoers bring. Whether seasonal cooks there to stock up on longed-for summer produce; friends on a wander for a day out; or food lovers after a few deliciously easy wins to enjoy on a rug somewhere. Any kind of picnic (garden/beach/park/lounge) can be so easily catered for at a food market. In one swoop you can pick up chilled bottles of interesting wines, beers and softs; breads for ripping into; butter and seasonal young cheeses; charcuterie; salty black olives, and all kinds of fabulous fruits. Tins of preserved fish make for interesting rug-chat over the beautiful boxes. At Borough there’s no shortage of choice of those at The Tinned Fish Market stall. Sometimes there I’ll go for the Cântara small squid stuffed with onion, rice and tomatoes; other times the Pepus mussels in escabeche. Or else it’s the never-fail Ortiz tuna at Brindisa, home to so many foods that are a picnic-maker’s dream. (Fino sherry, truffle crisps, jamon, salted almonds… do I need to go on?) That ease the food markets gift to feeding a gathering translates seamlessly to the ease they offer summer’s everyday cooking and eating. The stalls (almost) struggling to fit in all the magnificent seasonal produce that is so often best enjoyed when hardly anything is being done to it. Courgettes, peppers and aubergines gleam with proud beauty among the glory of all the other summer vegetables and fruits. Pods of garden peas and broad or borlotti beans beg to be bought by the bagful. All of them are a joy to mindlessly and mindfully pop out of the shells when you get home, but the borlottis perhaps most of all as that’s the only way to really be able to admire the purple mottles of the bean before it disappears upon cooking. The best seasonal tomatoes need little more than olive oil and salt to bring out their supreme flavour. Salad options are inexhaustible – go for big sharing bowls of a fattoush or panzanella; or the neat Nicoise bundles featured in Borough Market: The Knowledge. There the classic Nicoise elements of anchovy, mayonnaise, capers and egg are piled aboard little gem boats for ease of eating. Another of my all-time favourite summer salads is in that book too: oregano-poached peaches, halloumi and hazelnuts. Its mix of sweetly salty flavours manages to be simultaneously refreshing and completely beautiful on the plate. The peaches in it becoming the very best version of themselves by being poached with dried oregano and honey. The choice of honey is no accident. In the summer I always make sure to stock up at the market on blossom honeys that will delicately yet effectively infuse so many foods – and drinks – with a floral undernote. Perhaps the lavender honey at From Field and Flower, or the wild thyme at Oliveology. That’s the one I use in the dressing for making The Knowledge’s labneh with watermelon, honey and mint. It’s a recipe that straddles the boundary of sweet and savoury, with watermelon griddled in olive oil, orange and sumac for peak refreshment. My top tip in making this is to always do more labneh than needed in the recipe because it is such a useful thing to be able to reach for in the fridge. All it takes is 900g of really good, thick Greek yoghurt mixed with 1 teaspoon of salt and spooned into a muslin-lined sieve. Let that drain for 6-12 hours (depending how thick you want it – longer equals thicker) and the result is approximately 500g of labneh. Use it for salads, or to spread on toast with perhaps just a few sliced apricots. Summer is mackerel season at the market. A fish that is packed with flavour and goodness, and also incredibly easy to cook. Griddle it, bake it, fry it, or over-fire it. And then, when any kind of cooking seems impossible in the heat, even sit it in vinegar for a while and let its acidity do the “cooking” for you. Try the same thing with the small fresh anchovies that the fishmongers also have in now. They absolutely don’t need to be gutted, but the skilled fishmonger will happily do it for you (and at the same time showcase exceptional filleting knife skills). Whenever I head to the market on a produce-shopping mission it tends to be just that – a mission. I do try to make sure to spend time checking out what is what because the very nature of market shopping is that it is never the same. What the stalls offer week on week is at the mercy of not just the season but whatever choices traders have been made on what to stock that week, that day. Yet, as I beetle around, I am always a bit envious of the market wanderers. It’s a feeling that grows even stronger in the summer when these marketgoers without any agenda of shopping lists to mark off, or a fridge to fill, are enjoying being among all the glorious foods on the day out with friends and family. With nothing to do except admiringly soak it all up while stopping off for the occasional energy-boost by way of an ice-cream or a glass of something coolly bolstering. What a great way to spend a day. The cooks, the picnic-ers, the wanderers. Each as welcome and as catered for in a summertime market. All playing a key role in building the atmosphere that makes these months there so deliciously special. For more information on what you can find at Borough Market, visit: boroughmarket.org.uk Read More Three quick and easy vegan fakeaway recipes The only three recipes you need to seize the summer Budget Bites: Three light recipes that sing of summer What the hell is Scandinavian food? Lighter fish pie: Comfort food you won’t feel guilty for eating How to make Norwegian potato pancakes
2023-07-03 14:24
The only three recipes you need to seize the summer
As the weather warms up and the nights get longer, there’s nothing better than a light and colourful summery feast in the garden, balcony, doorstep or basically any perch in the sun you can find. And there’s few who do it quite as well as Angela Clutton, author of Borough Market: The Knowledge. In her summer column for The Independent, she shares one of her all-time favourite salads: oregano-poached peaches, halloumi and hazelnuts. A mix of sweet and salty flavours, it’s simultaneously refreshing and completely beautiful on the plate. What’s summer without tomatoes? Terrible, that’s what. Clutton says the best seasonal toms need little more than olive oil and salt to bring out their supreme flavour and the salad options are inexhaustible. But one not to be missed is her Nicoise “bundles”. The classic Nicoise elements of anchovy, mayonnaise, capers and egg are piled abord little gem boats for ease of eating. Lastly, her labneh with watermelon, honey and mint is a recipe that straddles the boundary of sweet and savoury, perfect for those for whom dessert is not a priority. Her top tip is to always do more labneh than needed, as it’s such a useful thing to be able to reach for in the fridge. Equipped with these recipes, you’ll be dining al fresco – or faking it indoors if it, ahem, rains – all summer long. Oregano-poached peaches, halloumi and hazelnuts There are fresh herbs, there are dried herbs, and then there are frankly incredible dried herbs. Into that last camp fall dried herbs that are produced to exceptionally high standards and don’t just harness the flavour of the starting point, but elevate it. Those are the only dried herbs really worth having in your store cupboard. This recipe goes for poaching fresh peaches with dried oregano, which brings even more depth of flavour than fresh oregano would. Given the choice, I use one of the beautiful dried sprigs at Oliveology, but their ground oregano is lovely too. The poaching liquor is then reduced to a fragrantly sweet syrup for pouring over tender peach slices and fried halloumi, and finished with seasoned toasted nuts and mint. Perfect for a hot day. Serves: 2 as a main, 4 as a side or small plate Ingredients: 2 tsp dried oregano (or an Oliveology dried sprig) 1 tbsp honey 1 orange 2 peaches 40g skinned whole hazelnuts 1 tbsp fruity olive oil 6 sprigs of mint 225g halloumi Method: Pour 500ml water into a medium saucepan. Add the dried oregano (or oregano dried sprig), the honey and two broad strips of zest from the orange. Bring to the boil and, meanwhile, quarter and stone the peaches. Put them into the water, lower the heat to a simmer and sit a piece of baking paper on top. Simmer for 7-10 minutes until the peaches are fully tender. Use a slotted spoon to lift the peaches out and set aside. If their skins start to flake away as they cool, just peel them off. Strain the poaching liquor, discard the oregano and orange peel, then pour the poaching liquor back into the saucepan. Don’t worry if a few pieces of oregano are left in the liquid. Boil over a high heat for 10-15 minutes to reduce to a syrup – you are aiming for about 75ml syrup. While the poaching liquor reduces, toss the hazelnuts in the olive oil along with some salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper. Set a small dry frying pan over a low heat, then add the seasoned nuts and stir for 3 minutes or until they are just getting nicely toasted. Transfer to a bowl. Once they have cooled, roughly chop with the leaves from the mint sprigs. Cut the poached peach quarters into slices about 1cm thick. Once the syrup is almost sufficiently reduced, cut the halloumi into 1cm-thick slices. Set the same frying pan the nuts cooked in back onto the heat, then add the halloumi pieces turning each over after 2 minutes or so once they are browned. You might need to do this in two batches. Serve either on individual plates or on a large platter. Sit the halloumi on first, then arrange the peach slices prettily on top, scatter over the seasoned nut and mint mixture, and finish by spooning over your oregano-infused peach syrup. Niçoise bundles The classic niçoise salad is served here as individual bundles that are perfect for a summer lunch or starter. I’m giving you two versions: one layers up blitzed olives and capers with egg and an anchovy; for the other, flaked tuna sits on an olive bed with tarragon mayo. Their simplicity makes it important that each ingredient is chosen for maximum flavour. Perhaps especially the fish. I make these with (my favourite) Brindisa Ortiz anchovies and the same maker’s yellowfin tuna belly ‘ventresca, which in one bite of its long, tenderly rich hakes took me from thinking I didn’t really like tinned tuna to stockpiling it. Serves: 4 as a main or 8 as a small plate or starter Ingredients: 16 leaves of little gem lettuce and/or red chicory For the tarragon mayonnaise: 1 egg yolk, at room temperature 1½ tsp moscatel wine vinegar ¼ tsp English mustard powder 100ml sunflower oil 50ml mild olive oil 1 sprig of tarragon For the olive and tuna mix: ½ tsp raspberry vinegar 8 basil leaves 100g pitted black olives, drained weight 110g tinned yellowfin tuna For the egg, olive and anchovy mix: 2 hen’s eggs or 4 quail’s eggs 150g pitted black olives 2 tsp capers 1 garlic clove 7ml peppery olive oil, plus 1 tbsp for drizzling ½ lemon 8 anchovy fillets Method: Wash and dry the lettuce or red chicory leaves. For half of the little gem/chicory leaves: Make the mayonnaise by gently hand-whisking the egg yolk with a pinch each of salt and ground pepper. Stir in the vinegar and the mustard powder, then hand-whisk in both the oils — drop by drop to start with, then in a steady, thin stream — until you have a lovely thick, shiny mayonnaise. Check the seasoning, chop the tarragon leaves and stir through. Sprinkle a little raspberry vinegar, salt and pepper inside eight of the little gem / chicory leaves and line with a basil leaf. Chop the olives and sit them inside. Top with flaked tuna. Serve with the tarragon mayonnaise on top, or alongside to be spooned over. For the other half of the leaves: Hard-boil the 2 hen’s eggs (or 4 quail’s eggs) and set aside to cool. Put the olives, drained capers, peeled garlic, 75ml of olive oil and a good squeeze of lemon juice in a blender and blitz to a paste. Peel the hard-boiled eggs. Quarter them if hen’s, halve if quail’s. Spoon the oli relish inside the lettuce / chicory leaves, sit a piece of egg inside too and then over the top the whole anchovy fillet. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Serve the bundles on platters for people to help themselves, or portion up two of each type per person. Labneh with watermelon, honey and mint I like to serve this as part of a medley of salads on a hot day. Or – noting that it is really on the cusp of savoury or sweet – lean into the sweetness and hold back a little on the salt: as a dessert it is especially appreciated by anyone without a super-sweet tooth. Making your labneh is simplicity itself – it is, after all, just strained yoghurt – and a lovely thing to do, so long as you start at least six hours before wanting to eat it. Actually, every part of this recipe can be made ahead of time, chilled, then quickly assembled for serving at room temperature. Serves: 6 as part of a sharing feast Ingredients: 500g labneh made from 900g thick Greek yoghurt (see box) About 800g watermelon 2 tbsp olive oil ½ orange 1 tsp wild sumac 2 tbsp wild thyme honey Handful of mint Method: Spoon the labneh into a large serving bowl. Trim the ends of the watermelon and cut the fruit into triangles about 1cm thick. Mix the olive oil with the juice from the orange, half the sumac and a good pinch of salt. Get a griddle pan (or barbecue) good and hot, brush the watermelon pieces with the dressing and sit the pieces in a single layer in the pan (or on the grill). If using a griddle pan you will probably need to do this in two batches. Turn them over after a couple of minutes, when nicely charred underneath. Let the other side char, then lift the slices out to cool. Add any juices from the pan to your leftover oil, orange and sumac dressing. Whisk in the honey and the rest of the sumac. Add more salt. Sit the watermelon pieces on the labneh and pour over the dressing. Chop the mint and scatter over, then finish with a grinding of black pepper. You can visit Borough Market at 8 Southwark Street, London, SE1 1TL (020 7407 1002) or find more recipes online at boroughmarket.org.uk/recipes. Read More Three quick and easy vegan fakeaway recipes Budget Bites: Three light recipes that sing of summer What the hell is Scandinavian food? Lighter fish pie: Comfort food you won’t feel guilty for eating How to make Norwegian potato pancakes Rhubarb sticky buns for an idyllic Scandinavian afternoon tea
2023-07-03 13:58
What the hell is Scandinavian food?
Danish pastries are world-famous, but what do you know about the rest of Scandinavian cuisine? With a food philosophy that centres around seasonal produce, perhaps the Scandi approach to cooking is the way forward when considering the environment and the cost-of-living crisis. “It’s very seasonal, lots of vegetables and very clean flavours,” Copenhagen-based chef and food writer Trine Hahnemann says of Danish cuisine. “So salt, pepper, nutmeg; salt, pepper, lemon; salt, pepper, vinegar – it’s not bland at all, we use spices, but we use them one at a time.” Hahnemann, 58, says this emphasis on seasonality helps save money. “It becomes too expensive to buy vegetables that are out of season, that are shipped or whatever,” she explains – but she’s all to aware that the Danish food scene is a bit of a paradox. She mentions produce “that have become everyday things, which people eat every day – like cucumbers, tomatoes and bananas. You can’t convince people there’s also a season for bananas – it’s year round, all the time. They’re the biggest fruit in Denmark”. This doesn’t stop Hahnemann advocating for eating the seasons – which in Denmark means you might be limited to root vegetables and potatoes in the winter. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, particularly as we’re now coming into summer and there’s a glut of fruit and vegetables available. Summer cabbage, radish, fennel, tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, strawberries, tomatoes – they’re all in her shopping basket during this time of year. Hahnemann is a salad fan, and she’s devoted a whole section of her new cookbook, Simply Scandinavian, to them. The chef argues people “don’t take [salads] seriously enough” – and opening a bag from the supermarket won’t quite cut it. “Buy a few vegetables, bake them nicely in the oven with either lemon juice and a little bit of a spice of some kind – it could be garam masala, it could be garlic – then always have a nice dressing. Spend some money on some good oils or good vinegars, because that’s where the flavours are. “Then think about texture… Texture means a lot when we eat.” The moral of the story? “Salads are amazing, because there are no rules – anything can become a salad,” she says. Hahnemann learned traditional Scandinavian cooking from her grandmother, saying: “My favourite dish when I was little that my grandmother would cook for me was meatballs with the cucumber salad.” Her grandma ever explicitly taught her how to make this dish – Hahnemann was instructed to help out, and eventually learned classic Danish recipes through osmosis. “It was much later in my 20s I realised what an amazing gift she’d given me without ever asking if I wanted to be involved – because I was involved, but I was never asked to be part of the cooking. I just saw it all tasted it,” Hahnemann says. Not that feeding Hahnemann was much of a chore: “When I was a child I loved everything. The only thing I didn’t like was a well-done omelette, that was the only thing I couldn’t eat when I was little.” Hahnemann’s grandmother also taught her how to bake, drawing upon the traditional recipes Denmark is famous for. As a child, she practised baking while living on a commune with her parents in the Sixties and Seventies. “There was this idea that children, their creativity should be nurtured, you shouldn’t put limits on things. So I baked all these horrible cakes and the grown-ups would eat them and say, ‘Oh, it’s wonderful Trine’ – and it was nothing like that,” Hahnemann remembers with a laugh. It was only when someone in the commune started giving her tips on beating the butter and sugar before adding the rest of the ingredients that “all of a sudden this world opened up to me about baking”. Hahnemann still uses baking as a tool when she’s “really stressed out”, and has a bakery in Copenhagen putting the spotlight on traditional Scandinavian bakes like cardamom buns and rye bread. She says baking is “the most important thing” about Scandinavian cuisine. “Because of the rye bread, and the whole lunch concept of open sandwiches on the rye bread. The whole breakfast is about bread, then you have all the celebratory baked goods – that you can say we now eat on a more regular basis.” While Hahnemann accepts some “traditions are disappearing, because everybody’s working so much”, she’s keen to keep the spotlight on traditional buns, breads and baking. When she recently taught a baking class, she was “so happy” to have a group of male friends in their 20s sign up, saying: “I think it’s important to keep it alive.” ‘Simply Scandinavian’ by Trine Hahnemann (Quadrille, £27).
2023-06-29 13:58
Three quick and easy plant-based fakeaways to create at home
In the UK, we all love a good takeaway, but thanks to the cost-of-living crisis, many now see this as a luxury and are swapping going out with staying in and saving their pennies. To help recreate your top takeaway dishes, the pioneers at meat alternative brand Planted have pulled together three delicious fakeaway favourites that you can make with ease at home. From aromatic butter chicken to sumptuous satay kebabs and tender BBQ burgers, there’s something for everyone. Butter chicken Serves: 4 Ingredients: 2 tsp vegetable oil 1 onion, chopped 1 tsp garlic, chopped 1 tsp ginger, chopped 1½ tsp garam masala 1½ tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tomato, chopped 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp salt 250ml coconut milk 1 tsp sugar For the marinade: 350g planted.chicken original ½ cup unflavoured yoghurt or vegetable yoghurt (optional) 1 tbsp minced garlic 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger 1½ tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp chili powder 1 tsp salt Method: Mix the ingredients for the marinade well with the planted.chicken and marinate for at least 1 hour. Heat vegetable oil in a large pot and sauté onions until soft, then add garlic and ginger and sauté for 1 more minute. Add the garam masala, cumin and coriander and cook for 20 seconds, stirring regularly. Add the tomatoes, chili and salt and simmer for 15 minutes until the sauce thickens Put the sauce in a blender and mix until it has a creamy consistency, then put it back into the pot. Add the coconut milk and sugar to the sauce and bring to the boil. Allow liquid to cool, remove blender cap and firmly press a towel over the top. Fry the marinated planted.chicken in a pan until golden brown (approx 5 minutes), then add to the sauce and mix well. Serve with cooked rice. BBQ burger Ingredients: 4 pretzel buns 320g planted.pulled BBQ 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 150g sauerkraut 8 pickled cucumbers 4 onions 1 tbsp brown sugar 1 tsp tomato paste Salt and pepper 2 tbsp vegan butter 4 lettuce leaves 60g sweet mustard 60g BBQ sauce 1 tsp apple cider vinegar 1 tsp maple syrup Method: Cut the pretzel buns in half and toast the insides. Cut the pickled cucumbers into slices. Peel the onions and cut into rings. Then melt the vegan butter in a pan over medium heat, briefly fry the tomato paste in it and then add the onions and sugar and leave to brown for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Mix the sweet mustard, BBQ sauce, apple cider vinegar and maple syrup to a sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat the rapeseed oil in a pan and fry the planted.pulled BBQ in it for 3 minutes. Spread the sauce on the inside of the buns, top the burgers with sauerkraut, planted.pulled BBQ, lettuce leaves, pickles and the caramelised onions. Satay kebab Ingredients: 600g planted.chicken original 4 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp peanut butter 2 tbsp red curry paste 2 tbsp brown sugar/maple syrup 2 tsp garlic powder Salt and pepper Sesame oil for frying Skewers (wood or metal) For the peanut sauce: 1 small onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced or crushed in garlic press 2 tsp sesame oil 2 tsp red curry paste 2 tbsp light soy sauce 2 tsp tamarind paste 2 tbsp brown sugar 240ml coconut milk 160g peanut butter Juice of one lime Method: For the marinade, mix all ingredients in a small bowl to form a paste. Put the planted.chicken on skewers and brush with marinade. Tip: arrange lengthwise so that a larger surface can be fried. For the peanut sauce, mince the onion while heating the sesame oil in a pot. Fry the chopped onions in the pot at medium heat until they are translucent. Add garlic and curry paste to the onions, mix and fry briefly. Reduce heat and then add the soy sauce, tamarind paste, sugar and coconut milk and mix well. Add the peanut butter, stir until smooth and mix in the juice of one lime. Keep the peanut sauce warm on low heat while the skewers are frying. Heat the sesame oil in a frying pan and fry the skewers over medium-high heat until golden brown. Serve planted.chicken skewers with the peanut sauce. Read More The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town Missing Glastonbury? Here’s how to have a festival feast at home Four berry sweet recipes that go beyond strawberries and cream Can you whip up the perfect burger in just five minutes? These are the viral TikTok recipes you have to make this Father’s Day Eddie Huang: ‘I’ll never eat at BAO London – I know mine’s better’
2023-06-23 13:53