Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, V&A Museum review: Retrospective doesn’t shy away from designer’s Nazi ties
In 1953, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reopened her couture house after a 14-year hiatus at the age of 70. “Why did I return?” the legendary fashion designer later posited in an interview with Life magazine. “One night at dinner, Christian Dior said a woman could never be a great couturier.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures everything Chanel represents to this day, more than a century after she opened her first millinery shop in Paris in 1910. It also happens to be nestled in the enormous boarded timeline of the designer’s life that greets visitors to Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, a major retrospective of the French couturière’s work, at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Marking the first time that a UK exhibition has been dedicated entirely to Chanel, it charts the designer’s humble beginnings in the Loire Valley of France through to the establishment of her eponymous brand and the evolution of her creations throughout the years. Incorporating gowns, suits, jewellery, fragrances and accessories, the exhibition features more than 50 of the designer’s famous tweed suits alongside several fragile pieces usually stored deep within the belly of the V&A’s archive. “We were very aware of the classic things people know about Coco Chanel,” says curator Connie Karol Burks, referencing the designer’s famous little black dresses, the 2.55 handbag and her tweed suits. “We really wanted to spotlight much more of what she contributed to fashion, and a bit more of her approach to designing clothes, like her need for comfort, simplicity and freedom of movement.” It’s a modality easily expressed from the start of the exhibition, the entrance to which is a subtle, black, perfume-like box on the ground floor (the museum’s usual rotunda-like fashion space is currently occupied by its Diva exhibition). When downstairs, visitors may be surprised to find flowing frocks fitted with bows and pockets from as early as the 1930s. “She was an active independent woman, primarily designing for herself,” explains Karol Burks. “These were practical and elegant clothes.” Practicality, as we soon learn, was an integral part of Chanel’s oeuvre. The exhibition celebrates the designer’s penchant for streamlined garments, clothes that rejected the stiff and restrictive aesthetics that had defined women’s wear just a few years earlier. It also includes details of her deep connection to Britain, including her friendships with figures from high society. While staying at the respective homes of Winston Churchill and the Duke of Westminster, Chanel embraced British sport, which is thought to be how the corresponding aesthetics of tweed and knitted jerseys found their way into her collections. Also included here is a sketch of Chanel painted by Churchill while the two were staying at the Duke of Westminster’s Scottish retreat in 1928. “Coco is here,” he wrote to his wife at the time. “She fishes from morn till night, & in two months has killed 50 salmon.” Elsewhere, highlights include the Chanel “Ford”, the name given to the designer’s little black dress that became a global staple for women everywhere. There are evening gowns aplenty, and an optic-white room entirely dedicated to the creation of the designer’s iconic perfume Chanel No 5, as well as an oval-shaped section devoted to Chanel’s tweed suits, with two rows of them spanning the curve of the room. As has already been reported, the exhibition also doesn’t shy away from Chanel’s controversial wartime activities. It features previously unseen documents illustrating evidence of her collusion with Nazis during the Second World War, while also, confoundingly, unearthing evidence that indicates she was a member of the French resistance. “It’s such a complex thing to get your head around,” says Karol Burks. “We felt it was important to have it in the exhibition and to display those original documents. But they almost give more questions than answers.” Unlike the V&A’s Dior exhibition, which charted the brand’s existence beyond the life of its founder, the Chanel retrospective ends with the designer’s death in 1971. Given the label’s extensive history in modern culture, perhaps this makes sense: there’s only so much you can squeeze into one show. But in many ways, it is a limitation that produces a lingering sense of intrigue around the designer herself. “Despite there being over 175 biographies [of Chanel], she’s still being written about and new information is still coming to light,” Karol Burks adds. “I don’t think anyone has quite pinned down who Gabrielle Chanel was. The more you learn about her, the less you know.” ‘Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto’ runs from 16 September until 25 February at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum Read More Loved in triangles, dressed for liberation: The queer fashion secrets of Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Group Young people not snowflakes or wasters, says curator of rebellious fashion exhibition Pharrell Williams designed his first collection for Louis Vuitton for himself
2023-09-13 07:18
MTV VMAs: Most iconic outfits of all time, from Lil’ Kim to Lady Gaga
A ceremony notorious for its shocking on-stage moments and outrageous red carpet looks, the MTV Video Music Awards, otherwise known as the VMAs, will take place on Sunday 30 August. But, due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, this year will be unlike any other. The event, which celebrates the best music videos of the year, was originally set to air live from Barclays Centre in Brooklyn, but those plans have since been scrapped. Instead, the show will consist of various live outdoor performances across New York City from artists including Ariana Grande and Miley Cyrus, which will all be streamed online and presented by Scream Queens and Hustlers star Keke Palmer. While little else is known about the details of the ceremony, one thing viewers can be sure of is that there will be plenty of show-stopping looks to enjoy. According to direct messages shared by fans on Twitter, the VMAs is planning on having a formal red carpet of some kind, but in what capacity it will take place is uncertain. Since the first ceremony in 1984, the VMAs has delivered some iconic outfits aplenty, ranging from the truly show-stopping to the downright bizarre. Over the years, we have seen Lady Gaga arrive in a dress made out of meat, Katy Perry pay homage to Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake’s double denim moment, and Lil’ Kim wear one of the most famous body-baring jumpsuits of all time. Click through the gallery above to take a look back through the most memorable and iconic looks to have ever graced the VMAs red carpet. Read More Fashion experts pick the essentials you need for your staycation
2023-09-13 07:15
2023 MTV VMAs: The best-dressed stars on the red carpet, from Olivia Rodrigo to Doja Cat
The 2023 MTV Video Music Awards (VMAs) have arrived, and the stars are pulling out all the fashion stops. The VMAs take place on Tuesday 12 September, as fans and fellow performers celebrate the best music videos and artists of the year. The official ceremony is scheduled to air live from the Prudential Center in Newark, New Jersey, beginning at 5pm PST/ 8pm EST. Returning as the VMA host for the second year in a row is Nicki Minaj, who will also be performing. Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion are also set to perform, along with Demi Lovato, Olivia Rodrigo, Doja Cat, Fall Out Boy, Karol G, Kelsea Ballerini, Måneskin, Reneé Rapp, Shakira, Sabrina Carpenter and Future. Taylor Swift is also set to make an appearance, as she leads this year’s nominees with eight nods. While many viewers are looking forward to show-stopping performances from their favourite artists, the VMAs has also been known for pulling out some memorable fashion moments, such as Lady Gaga’s iconic meat dress. Here’s all the best dressed artists on the 2023 MTV VMAs red carpet. Olivia Rodrigo Olivia Rodrigo dazzled in a low-cut silver column dress. She styled her long hair brown straight, with a center part. Doja Cat Doja Cat wore a barely-there, white Apocene dress that closely resembled spider webs. The look featured sparse, white fabric draped across her body, with a pair of nude underwear hidden underneath the ensemble. She paired her red carpet fashion with see-through heels, diamond drop earrings, and silver bracelets. Read More What time does the 2023 MTV VMAs start and how to watch? Taylor Swift and SZA lead 2023 MTV Video Music Award nominations MTV Video Music Awards return Tuesday, with an all-female artist of the year category Pro-gamer Jukeyz ‘died for two minutes’ after cardiac arrest which left him ‘scared to sleep’ Fashion executive and breast cancer survivor uses her NYFW show to raise awareness Blake Lively fans wowed by Seventies-inspired gold jumpsuit at New York Fashion Week
2023-09-13 06:15
Fashion executive and breast cancer survivor uses her NYFW show to raise awareness
One brand creator used her runway to raise awareness for breast cancer and encourage women to support their bodies during this year’s New York Fashion Week. As a breast cancer survivor herself, Dana Donofree, who was diagnosed at 27, previously struggled to find the perfect fit when it came to intimates after her mastectomy. The mold and structure of “regular” bras were not only incompetent but seemingly “awful” and “ugly,” according to the designer. That was until she developed the perfect configuration for her own brand, AnaOno. Speaking to Elle, Donofree recounts how her former frustration with limited lingerie options led to the launch of her company. “After removing both my breasts to treat my disease and reconstructing them, I found that ‘regular’ intimates no longer fit. What was available to me instead were these awful, ugly, matronly bras,” she explained. “I knew that we could do better! Women undergoing cancer treatment are already dealing with so much. They don’t also need to deal with hating their clothes. So I started figuring out a solution.” A designer and innovative problem solver, Donofree examined the necessary fit for the recovery stages associated with breast cancer survivors who’ve endured implants, mastectomies, and unilateral removals. No matter how far along a woman is in their individual journey post-diagnosis, AnaOno offers a range of picks from nighties to breathable leisurewear. “Something I’ll never compromise on is absolute inclusion,” the creator continued. “Whether you have two breasts, one breast, no breasts, or new breasts…we’ll make it work for all of it.” With that being said, Donofree ensured her size range varied, with the largest available option being a 3X. Donofree’s desire to design her brand supporting breast cancer survivors was also about inspiring other women, through a fuse of agency, style, ease, and motivation in keeping a healthy body and mind. This also meant straying from the “pink-washing” that is often associated with the disease. The fashion executive noted: “As a survivor myself for 13 years, I can say that there have been times when I’ve been really mad at the ‘pink-washing’ of breast cancer awareness. It felt very exploitive to me, you know, to have your pain and ‘resilience’ put in a marketing campaign!” And that’s exactly what she avoided in this year’s runway display during fashion week in the Big Apple. Inside a Lower East Side church, Donofree’s show titled “(R)Evolution” unfolded negligee versatility to promote properly fitting garments and breast cancer awareness. “I didn’t want to abandon the use of pink altogether, because breast cancer research and awareness saves lives. If we can impact research and find more ways to treat this disease, we can get more time with the ones we love,” the fashion mogul remarked. “And if we can impact awareness, we can ensure people get diagnosed as fast as possible, which leads to many more treatment options.” “We’re finally awakening to the fact that cancer and disease is an issue that’s linked to pollution and environmental damage,” she continued. “Fashion as a whole needs to accept responsibility to create a better earth and healthier humans, because what touches your skin gets absorbed by your skin. Using quality fabric matters a lot to me, and to other fashion designers. And it also matters greatly to cancer patients.” Donofree enlisted the help of #CancerCulture, a patient-led nonprofit organisation dedicated to spreading awareness in creative avenues, to co-produce the show. The brand’s display will also lead to a donation of $25,000 to the Breast Cancer Research Center, with hopes to reach a larger sum of $50,000. In Donofree’s experience, she’s concluded that the right bra will lead to “a better life”. “It’s not just about your body – it’s about your story,” AnaOno’s website reads. “No matter who you are, no matter your story, we believe you should have a bra that fits your unique shape.” Read More Ralph Lauren, a son of the Bronx, takes over Brooklyn in lavish return to NY Fashion Week Proenza Schouler debut effortlessly cool looks at NYFW Tory Burch deconstructs classic style in new NYFW collection Linda Evangelista says she views breast cancer scars as ‘trophies’ after mastectomy Cancer cases in young people ‘are rising’ – the warning signs to look out for Linda Evangelista says she was diagnosed with breast cancer twice within five years
2023-09-13 05:29
Google antitrust trial: Tech giant denies abusing power to gain monopoly
In a landmark trial brought by the US government, the tech giant denies using illegal practices to gain a monopoly.
2023-09-13 04:17
Russian aid reaches beleaguered enclave of Nagorno-Karabakh
Nine months into an effective blockade, a humanitarian aid lorry enters Nagorno-Karabakh.
2023-09-13 02:52
Factbox-Apple rolls out iPhone 15, watches with 'double tap' feature at flagship event
(Reuters) -Apple on Tuesday took the wraps off newer variants of some of its best-selling devices, hoping that they make
2023-09-13 02:47
Factbox-Why have US Republicans opened an impeachment inquiry into Joe Biden?
U.S. House of Representatives Republicans will open an impeachment inquiry into Democratic President Joe Biden after months of
2023-09-13 01:49
Wells Fargo CFO expects more layoffs ahead
By Nupur Anand NEW YORK Wells Fargo could see its headcount decline further as it aims to improve
2023-09-12 23:29
Danelo Cavalcante: 'Desperate' US prison fugitive armed with stolen rifle
Danelo Cavalcante has stolen a rifle from a homeowner, who fired shots at the prowling prison fugitive.
2023-09-12 23:18
Josh Duhamel and wife Audra Mari announce they’re expecting first baby together
Josh Duhamel and his wife, Audra Mari, are welcome their first child together. The couple, who officially tied the knot in September 2022, shared a joint post to Instagram on 11 September to reveal that they’re expecting. The post included a picture of a baby’s ultrasound, as it was placed next to a white flower on a table. Mari simply captioned the post with: “Baby Duhamel coming soon,” along with a white heart emoji. Many famous faces took to the comments to congratulate the pair, including Duhmael’s ex-wife, Fergie, with whom he shares a 10-year-old son, Axl. “I am truly happy for you guys,” the singer commented. “Axl can’t wait to be a big brother.” “Congratulations! The most beautiful news! I’m thrilled for you both!!” The Girl Next Door star Elisha Cuthbert added. Former Bachelorette star Clare Crawley wrote: “I was just thinking this morning about you!!” Duhamel, 50, and Mari, 29, were first romantically linked in 2019, nearly two years after the actor announced his split from Fergie. In January 2022, the Shotgun Wedding star took to Instagram to reveal that he and Mari were engaged. “It’s on!! She found a message in a bottle that washed ashore and said YES!!” he wrote in the caption, alongside a photo of him and his partner, as she was holding a paper that read: “Audra Diane Mari, Will You Marry Me?” After tying the knot in September 2022, Mari went on to praise her relationship with her now-husband. “Everyone told me that after you get married you feel different,” she told Us Weekly, at the time. “To be honest, I never really believed them and I thought it would feel the same way it’s felt being with Joshua for the last three years. But it’s much different! I feel secure.” Last year, the couple also made headlines when they poked fun at their 21-year age difference. While attending the Casamigos Halloween party in Beverly Hills, California, Mari dressed up as 26-year-old Anna Nicole Smith, while Duhamel dressed up as her 89-year-old husband, billionaire J Howard Marshall. Mari went on to post a video on Instagram of her partner in costume, as he was wearing a bald cap. In the caption, she quipped: “What age difference? Ladies and gentlemen Anna Nicole Smith & J. Howard Marshall.” This wasn’t the first time Duhamel has poked fun at his and his wife’s age gap. During an appearance on The Kelly Clarkson Show in October 2022, he recalled how he had to go to the emergency room for a back injury, mere hours before his wedding. While he said he no longer had the pain during his big day, after going to the doctor, his back issues continued the next day. “The next morning, after the wedding, [I] couldn’t get out of bed again,” Duhamel said. “[My wife’s] like, ‘Oh my God. Everything is fine here. This is, like, the first day of my marriage, and I’m wheeling my husband around in a wheelchair.’ I’m already way older than she is.” “It wasn’t a great start,” he quipped. “But, I was like: ‘Babe, for better or worse.’” Read More Our weekend arts and culture picks, from The Fabelmans to Happy Valley Josh Duhamel and Audra Mari poke fun at their age gap by channeling Anna Nicole Smith and husband for Halloween Jennifer Lopez mysteriously wipes Instagram account and goes dark on other social channels Mom says she was shamed for teaching infant son to take pride in his appearance Kelly Osbourne opens up about weight loss journey Hairspray star reveals she went into labour while attending Beyoncé concert
2023-09-12 22:55
Intel to sell 10% stake in IMS Nanofabrication to TSMC
By Max A. Cherney (Reuters) -Intel said on Tuesday it has agreed to sell a stake of about 10% in
2023-09-12 21:23