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2023-08-25 15:18

Dorshi, Dorset: Funky Malaysian dumplings are a hit on the south coast
By the time I sit down at my table in Dorshi, a charming southeast Asian restaurant in the town of Bridport, Dorset, I’m exhausted but excited. The dumpling-forward eatery, tucked inside an alleyway, takes its inspiration from the streets of Penang, Malaysia. It has a hole-in-the-wall feel that many restaurants on the food-obsessed island have, as though you’ve squeezed yourself between two buildings only to find food heaven awaiting you. Opened by friends and owners Jollyon Carter and Radhika Mohendas in 2016, the pair had first spend time travelling around the UK to bring their delicious morsels to festivals, outdoor events and supper clubs. The Malaysian connection is made even clearer after I discover that Mohendas hails from the Southeast Asian country. Although she is absent from Dorshi on the night, I can see the cultural influence in everything – from the menu design, to the white sheets of paper clipped onto the tables, to the short, breezy curtains that hang down to give some semblance of separation between spaces. The presence of paper “tablecloths” suggest your meal might get a little messy, but it’s all part of the fun. The menu is also exciting, divided into dumpling and non-dumpling dishes, with unexpected combinations like pork and Bury black pudding, hot smoked fish, beancurd, and capers, and field mushroom and Dorset red cheddar. I want to order as many things as possible. But getting to this point of my evening has taken almost eight hours, when it should have taken no longer than four. My journey to Bridport began promisingly: there were no train strikes and my guest and I were well prepared with snacks and tinnies for the two-and-a-half-hour journey from London Waterloo. But no sooner had I stepped onto the train things began to go south – both literally and figuratively. The air conditioning was bust and the carriage got muggier and muggier as it crawled along the tracks. The train got stuck mid-way through the journey, leaving us wondering if we would be stranded at Brockenhurst for hours. By the time we actually arrived in Bridport, the journey had stretched to more than five hours. And really, I should’ve known this would happen considering the state of Britain’s railways. But this wasn’t even the end of our travel woes – later, we would discover that getting a taxi to pick you up on time in rural Dorset is something of a rarity, and trying to flag a taxi back to the hotel after 9pm was nearly impossible. Never mind though – here we finally are at Dorshi, stomachs rumbling and hopes high. We order all the aforementioned dumplings, with the addition of the white fish and sorrel number. For the non-dumpling dishes, one of the friendly waitresses recommends a celery, cucumber, strawberries and lovage salad coated in a kind of sauce made from cashews and nori seaweed, which was crunchy, fresh and delicious. We also indulge in fried shimeji mushrooms flavoured with togarashi, a Japanese spice blend of chilli flakes, seaweed and sesame seeds, and served with a seaweed mayo, as well as Hakata noodles (a type of ramen noodle) with the house broth and smoked garlic oil. Each dish is carefully crafted and balanced, making for perfect bites every time. The pork and black pudding steamed dumplings are succulent, while the hot smoked fish and beancurd fillings encased in crispy fried dumpling dough are a crispy, salty revelation. Mushroom and cheese in a dumpling? Yes please, I’d have 10 more of those if I could. I even go out on a limb and try a “kimchi pickleback” – a shot of tequila chased by a shot of kimchi juice. It’s a strange but wonderfully funky combination. Dorshi doesn’t fail to disappoint on any count, and it’s easy to see why everyone I had spoken to that day had raved about it. When we finally return to the family-run Outbuildings, where we were staying the night, I rave about the dumplings we had just devoured to Ed Whitehead and his husband Dom, who had welcomed us with warm smiles to what they describe as a “mini Soho Farmhouse”. The luxurious farm stay (three words that sound strange strung together, but somehow work) was a huge treat that we enjoyed immensely, even going so far as to run the outdoor bath at The Coop the morning after and soak in the calmness of the countryside. Naturally, our taxi back to the station was late and we had just three minutes to spare before jumping onto our train back to London – which was also delayed. But despite all the travel woes, I’d love to go back to Bridport, stay at Outbuildings and dine at the lovely Dorshi again. If only the country’s public transport systems would get its act together, then everyone else can do the same, too. Dorshi, 6 Chancery Ln, Bridport, DT6 3PX | dorshi.co.uk | 01308 423221 Read More The best outdoor restaurants, terraces and rooftop bars in London to book now In Horto: Hearty, outdoorsy fare in a secret London Bridge garden The Union Rye, review: Finally, a decent restaurant in this charming East Sussex town 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home
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National Burger Day 2023: The best burgers in London and where to eat them
It seems as though every type of food gets its own day of celebration but National Burger Day (24 August this year) has been a key date in our diary since 2013. While we’re certainly fans all year round, if you want to mark the occasion with your favourite stack – or try something completely new – we’ve rounded up some of our favourite spots in London where you can do just that. From beef and chicken options to plant-based patties and even a fishy newcomer, there’s something for everyone. For example, indulge in a dirty burger from Five Guys, an OG classic from Bleecker or one of the new additions that have joined the ranks specifically for the big day. Whatever you’re feeling, this list should have you covered. Burgers and Beats A newcomer to the scene, Burgers and Beats has only been around since 2021. However, in that short space of time it’s fast cemented itself as one of London’s best burger offerings. You may have seen that iconic tomahawk burger making the rounds on Instagram – and we can confirm it’s not just a novelty. Every bit of it (complete with a fried egg, pico de gallo salsa, chimichurri and more) is absolutely delicious. However, the standard menu is also worth considering with the smashed double cheese and “east meets west” (with sweet chilli syrup and chimichurri mayo) being two of our all-time favourites in London. Also, do leave some room for the chicken tenders and loaded fries as they’re both excellent and worth stretching your stomach a little more for. burgersandbeats.co.uk Burger and Beyond Ah, we remember Burger and Beyond back in the days of the Camden Market stall… then its residency at the Camden Assembly. Well, it’s quite a different kettle of fish now, with four permanent sites up and running. Dining at the OG bricks and mortar spot in London’s Shoreditch, one bite of the “bougie” burger takes us straight back to those early days, but also proves just how far this place has come. Other standouts include the mushroom raclette burger (demonstrating that burgers most definitely do not have to be beef) and the vegan “chicken” entry with Korean sauce and gochujang mayo. We did love the krispie chicken, too, though we wished the miso butter was more prominent. If you’re not a burger fan (weird), we’d also recommend the trio of tacos, or the stellar dirty tots and bone marrow gravy fries. burgerandbeyond.co.uk Bleecker Potentially London’s favourite burger joint, Bleecker is undeniably committed to its cause, with founder Zan Kaufman trying to recreate the moment of euphoria he experienced upon trying “the best burger he had ever eaten” in New York on this side of the pond. From a burger truck to its first kiosk in Spitalfields Market, then bricks and mortar restaurants, it’s been years but this burger joint is still going strong. Again, keeping things simple, the most adventurous it gets is adding blue cheese or Neil Rankin’s symplicity burger to the menu. Burgers can be at their best this way and at Bleecker, the double cheeseburger is more than enough to satisfy any craving. bleecker.co.uk Punk Chef You can find professional chef and TV presenter Scott Garthwaite’s food truck in East London’s Spitalfields Market, which not only serves mouthwatering burgers but also employs three members of staff from the deaf community. We got our hands (and mouths) on Punk Chef’s classic number “The Legend”, which is essentially a chicken parm burger (though plant-based escalopes are also available) with homemade bechamel sauce, melted cheese, gherkins and a special burger sauce. A standout among London’s already top burger offering. punkchef.co.uk Blacklock Known for its chops and iconic Sunday roast, we’d also heard great things about the Blacklock burger. If you’re dining there but don’t fancy chops or steak, the burger offers so much more. Potentially more enjoyable, in our opinion, the double cheeseburger is packed full of onions that have been caramelised in “a healthy glug of vermouth”. Beautifully rich – but not overly so – and also a decent size. We have to say that while the rising trend of “the bigger, the better” may suit some, it might be overreaching for the humble burger. Bravo, Blacklock – we’ll be back for this one. theblacklock.com Black Bear Another London burger staple and one whose market stall days we still remember, Black Bear proves it’s an oldie but a goldie. You can’t come here and not get the Black Bear with cheese, smoked bacon and onion jam. However, the brisket burger, with 12-hour braised meat, and the miso bacon burger, with miso honey butter mayo, are very good choices, too. Share two and take one home for later? Also indulge in the cheeseburger spring roll, one of the restaurant’s signature snacks. blackbearburger.com Shake Shack Yes, we know everyone is well aquainted with the New York burger chain, but Shake Shack has come a long way since its days of being a hot dog stand in Madison Square. Originally the class “roadside” burger, what we really love about Shake Shack is the size. Like we said earlier, bigger doesn’t necessarily mean better and whether you go for a single or double patty here, Shake Shack burgers tend to hit the spot every time. While our frontrunner remains the Shackmeister (with those perfectly crispy ale-marinated shallots), the vegan crispy shallot burger is another one of our favourites. shakeshack.co.uk Coqfighter We’ve been pretty focused on beef burgers up until now – although still acknowledging the delicious vegan versions those burger brands have to offer – but here’s a spot that knows its stuff when it comes to fried chicken. It seemed only fitting that we tried the variety of sides on the menu, with the laksa butter wings and classic buffalo options taking centre stage. Don’t worry – we left room for the burgers, and thoroughly enjoyed devouring the iconic green chilli cheeseburger, featuring chipotle mayo and pickled green chilli. The honey ginger buffalo (what better string of words or ingredients is there?) is also a strong choice – but beware, it’s a messy one. coqfighter.com The Beaumont Stepping away from the classic burger joints, there are many standard restaurants in London that serve up burgers to rival those whose sole purpose is to cook them. The Beaumont is one of these spots, with Gatsby’s Room, situated in the centre of the hotel, offering the perfect escape from the buzz of central London. The Beaumont cheeseburger features a juicy patty on top of caramelised onions and is slathered with a rich and moreish secret sauce – proving that a good old fashioned favourite can still leave a lasting impression. Served with thick cut chips, it’s ideal for anyone who fancies a more decadent setting when devouring such a meal. thebeaumont.com Five Guys Another American food chain to make a long-lasting impression on the UK burger community, Five Guys is exactly where our brain goes when we think of the ultimate dirty burger. Things are kept simple, with a hamburger, cheeseburger, bacon burger and bacon cheeseburger on that side of the menu (the chain also includes hot dogs and various sandwiches, too) and if you ever have that intense craving, this may be the place to satisfy it. While a tricky one for anyone with a nut allergy (the chips are fried in peanut oil), the burgers come with two patties as standard and can be washed down with one of the many milkshake flavours on offer. If you want to cement yourself as a firm fan, Five Guys has also released its own line of merchandise so you can fully embrace the burger brand. fiveguys.co.uk The Mayfair Chippy And then there are the establishments that don’t want to miss out on the action. The Mayfair Chippy has launched a fish and chips-themed burger especially for National Burger Day – proving that you don’t need to be a burger bar to celebrate the occasion. The luxe burger is set to include only the most premium fillings of a halibut patty, deep fried lobster tail, spiced caviar mayonnaise, truffle comte cheese, brioche and pickles. It’s a pricey one, coming in at £60, and includes a side of chips and salad, too. It’s only available Thursday 24 August so if this sounds intriguing, head to Mayfair pronto. mayfairchippy.com So we’ve covered food and now what about wine? 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2023-08-24 13:46