
Citigroup employees expect management reshuffle, layoffs on Monday-sources
By Saeed Azhar, Svea Herbst-Bayliss and Tatiana Bautzer NEW YORK Citigroup employees expect further announcements about management changes
2023-11-18 03:48

The true story – and murky history – of Portuguese piri piri oil
Most people in the UK think they know piri piri. Thanks to a certain restaurant chain, it is most closely associated with chargrilled chicken, floppy bits of halloumi, corn on the cob and bottomless fizzy drinks. But the chilli oil’s history is a little more nuanced and murky than that. During a recent trip to the Algarve, where “chicken houses” outnumber British expats, I went in search of the truth. While no one can seem to agree on its exact origins, it’s thought that during Portugal’s “mercantile” era, explorers discovered the bird’s eye chilli pepper – the main ingredient in today’s ubiquitous hot sauce – somewhere in the Americas in the 15th century. Seeing its potential to rival the “black gold” (black pepper) trade, they brought it back to their colonies in Africa to cultivate it before selling it on to Asia and Europe, significantly cutting down the shipping time. And so the global spice trade was born. But the plant suited Africa’s hot, dry climate and quickly became an important ingredient in local cooking. Fermenting it in the baking African sun and using it to marinade meat cooked over fire produced the first iteration of the classic piri piri flavour we know and love today. It wasn’t until the late Sixties, however, when Portuguese settlers and native Africans started arriving in southern Portugal, bringing with them this centuries-old technique and an appetite for spice, that it took off globally. Around the same time, chicken was becoming more affordable in Portugal, with poorer families buying whole birds to keep everyone fed and the famous “chicken houses” opening up across the Algarve offering an economical meal out. Pairing it with the piri piri oil brought over from the colonies was a natural evolution. Its enduring popularity is evident in sell-out restaurants like Marufo – affectionately referred to as “the chicken shack” – where come dinnertime there’s a queue out the door. But with 20 chickens rotating on the purpose-built spits at any one time, meticulously tended by a hot in temperature as well as temper chef, service is quick. They churn out over 700 chickens a day. As a self-identified aficionado, it’s some of the best I’ve had. It’s also the place where Marco Mendes, co-founder of MJMK Restaurants, conceived the idea for Casa do Frango, London’s authentic Algarvan piri piri outpost. “I’ve been going to Marufo since I was a kid,” he tells me as we pitch up in the queue. “I took Jake [Kasumov, the other half of MJMK] to stay with my family. We were eating this chicken and we started to have that lightbulb moment of: ‘You know, this is really something special. Could we bring this to London?’” They opened the first site in London Bridge in 2018, and have gone from strength to strength, opening three more sites, with the latest one earlier this year in Victoria. Keeping things authentic in London’s melting pot of cuisines is the driving force behind the concept. Aside from the centrepiece of the menu, the piri piri chicken, “there are other touchpoints like the African rice” – supposedly created at a restaurant in the Algarve as a simple rice dish for staff to use up leftover ingredients – and other things that are particularly Algarvan, such as the montanheira salad (mountain tomato salad), which “really feels like home”, or particularly Portuguese, like “pastel de nata, the iconic custard tart of Portugal”. (“That obviously had to be on the original menu, and it’s been there ever since.”) They’re also the only restaurant using the smaller 800g-1kg chickens, known as chooks, that are traditionally used in the Algarve, which they source from a higher welfare farm in the UK. “We adhere to the authentic route of the dish as it’s done in the Algarve,” Mendes explains. “From how we prepare our chicken to how we choose them to begin with; the fact that we reverse spatchcock them; that we don’t marinate them before they go on the grill, they’re just basted in salt.” So what’s happening at Casa do Frango is pretty unique, and London is lapping it up. “For people who know Portugese cuisine or know southern Portuguese food and have been to the Algarve, I think it really resonates with them,” says Mendes. That being said, Portuguese isn’t a cuisine that’s all that well represented in the British capital or across the country, with only a handful of big name spots (MJMK also counts Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta in its canon) and smaller, family-run eateries paying true homage. Busting myths is an exercise close to Mendes’ heart. “Eating seasonally, eating with respect to the environment, understanding the ecosystem that you’re living in, that to me is what Portuguese cuisine is,” he explains. “But I also think that there’s a wealth of creativity. Some of the stereotypes around Portuguese food can be that it’s potentially a little bit rustic, or not as flavourful or complex or dynamic as our neighbours in Spain, but I think that’s untrue. I find that there’s so much deft in Portuguese cuisine. “I think the storytelling or marketing side of it has felt quite fragmented, but now amazing chefs from across the country are bringing the message out and telling that story. And I think people are realising just how profound the cuisine is and what it’s got to offer.” He’s quick to acknowledge, though, that the wider cuisine and the offering at Casa do Frango would be nothing without the controversial history that brought the bird’s eye chilli pepper to Portugal in the first place. “It’s definitely to do with Portuguese mercantile history in some form or another,” he says. “But I believe that in turn, we received a ton back from the countries and the people that formed part of that mercantile exploration.” He mentions Japanese tempura, brought by Portuguese missionaries to Japan in the 16th century, or vindaloo curry, which was originally invented as a way to preserve fresh ingredients by Portuguese sailors, and was later adapted by local cooks in Goa. He also says “a lot of our dishes came from the interaction between the Portuguese and their land. Take a dish like açorda [a Portuguese bread soup]. It came from Alentejo. The Portuguese living there need sustenance and nutrition, but they didn’t have any money. So they put a piece of bread and a poached egg in broth, and made what was effectively a savoury bread pudding.” It was a frugal way of filling peasant bellies, but today typically includes a handful of other ingredients like fresh herbs or seafood. Back at Casa do Frango in London, Mendes has some tips on how to have a truly authentic Algarvan experience. “If I were to go through my perfect order that’s truly intrinsic to Portugal, I would start by having the couvert, which is the bread and butter and the carrots and the lupin beans. As a starter, I would have the chorizo and the prawns, because both those dishes are iconic to Portugal. I would dip the bread into the piri piri oil as one should do.” Of course. “And then I would follow that with the patatas fritas [the fries], the African rice and the montanheira salad. Then the piri piri chicken. And I would finish it off with what is the most icnoic Algarvan dessert: the mousse de chocolat.” And, while most of the Casa do Frango recipes are a closely guarded secret, he’s shared exclusively with The Independent a few dishes so that you can host the perfect Algarvan feast at home. Saúde! Casa slaw Ingredients: For the slaw: 1 x hispi cabbage (approx 700-800g) 350g carrots 1 red onion (finely diced) 1 bunch of parsley (finely chopped) Sherry and mustard dressing Pinch of Maldon salt For the dressing: 50ml aged sherry vinegar 150ml extra virgin olive oil 3 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Maldon salt 5 turns of black pepper 2 tbsp caster sugar Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Wash the cabbage, cut in half lengthways, remove the core root and discard any outer leaves if bruised or damaged. Wash the carrots, peel and remove the tops and tails, then grate. Finely shred the hispi cabbage (use a food processor if you have one). Mix the cabbage and carrots together evenly. In a large bowl, mix the slaw with finely diced red onion and the sherry and mustard dressing. Place in a large serving dish and top with a pinch Maldon salt and the finely chopped parsley. Montanhiera salad Ingredients: For the dressing: 75ml white wine vinegar 200ml extra virgin olive oil Large pinch of table salt 1 tsp sugar For the salad: 3 medium green peppers 2 medium white skinned onions (or red onions) 250g cherry tomatoes on the vine 1 cucumber, diced 150ml classic French dressing (shop-bought or homemade) Salt and pepper to season Pinch of dry oregano, to serve Method: Mix all the ingredients for the dressing in a large bowl and whisk until fully emulsified. Pour into a clean bottle and keep refrigerated while you prepare the salad, or save for later. Grill the peppers on the barbecue, turning regularly. Cook for approximately 5 minutes or until the skin is evenly charred. Cool, peel off the skin and discard the seeds, then dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the onion and dice into 1cm cubes. Peel the cucumber, slice in half lengthways, remove the inside with a spoon and dice into 1cm cubes. Wash the tomatoes and slice in half through the eye. Mix the ingredients for the salad with the dressing in a large bowl apart from the oregano, add a pinch of Maldon salt and a few turns of black pepper, and mix well to coat all the ingredients. Serve in a salad bowl, with a sprinkle of dry oregano on top. Classic piri piri oil Ingredients: 5 garlic cloves (crushed to a paste) 1 tsp dried red chilli flakes 1 tsp chilli powder 2 tbsp whisky or brandy 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 bay leaf 1 tsp Maldon sea salt 250ml (1 cup) olive oil Method: Place all ingredients except half of the olive oil in a small pan on a medium heat and bring to a simmer. Then remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining 125ml oil. Cool down and refrigerate until needed. Casa do Frango has four locations in London Bridge, Victoria, Shoreditch and Piccadilly. Find out more or make a reservation at casadofrango.co.uk Read More 30-minute summer recipes for all the family to enjoy What to cook this week: Tomato tart, sweetcorn pasta and other summery suppers Dorshi, Dorset, restaurant review: Funky dumplings are a hit on the south coast Tofu chicken to chickpea bacon – how and why you should make plant-based meat at home The dish that defines me: Mallini Kannan’s baked honey-soy salmon Breakfast for dinner and four other things you should cook this week
2023-08-26 13:48

Olivia Dunne sizzles in black bikini as she shares polaroids from Malibu
Olivia Dunne recently returned to California and was dressed to kill for yet another occasion in a sizzling black bikini
2023-07-12 14:29

Troubled retailer Tesco picks Burberry boss as chair
Britain's biggest retailer Tesco on Monday named Burberry boss Gerry Murphy as chairman, replacing John Allan who stepped down after...
2023-07-03 20:23

AMP Raises US$18.5m (AUD$28.5m) Series A to Expand eCommerce Platform
SYDNEY--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Sep 11, 2023--
2023-09-11 22:25

Angus Cloud’s family release never-before-seen audition tape that landed him Euphoria role
Angus Cloud's family has released the audition tape that led to his role as Fezco in Euphoria, to remember him following his passing. "It really captures my son's extraordinary spirit", his mum wrote alongside the clip on Facebook. In the video, Cloud is acting like his usual laidback-self, describing himself to the casting agent as 'goofy' and 'engaging in any random spontaneous activity' - like the time he broke into San Francisco zoo and wound up in a kangaroo cage. The actor passed away on 31 July at home in Oakland, California. Sign up to our new free Indy100 weekly newsletter
2023-08-10 17:48

Ange Postecoglou pleased Premier League leaders Tottenham pass latest exam
Ange Postecoglou was pleased Premier League leaders Tottenham passed their latest exam with a hard-fought 2-1 win at Crystal Palace and was in no mood to stop fans dreaming of a title challenge. Spurs moved five points clear at the summit after they recovered from a sluggish first half at Selhurst Park to score twice in 13 second-half minutes. An own-goal from Joel Ward broke the deadlock in the 53rd minute when he deflected James Maddison’s cross beyond Palace goalkeeper Sam Johnstone and it was 2-0 soon after when Tottenham captain Son Heung-min steered home after Brennan Johnson’s assist. Jordan Ayew reduced the deficit for Palace in the fourth minute of stoppage-time, but Spurs held on to extend their unbeaten top-flight run to 10 matches and move five clear of Manchester City and Arsenal, who play Manchester United and Sheffield United respectively across the weekend. “Let them dream. That’s what being a football supporter is all about. It’s fair to say this lot have suffered a fair bit, so I’m certainly not going to dampen that,” Postecoglou said. “Top of the table is great and the results are great but it’s more in the manner we’re doing it. Pretty much from the first game we’ve had all sorts of different challenges we’ve had to overcome. “Every time there has been a real focus and clear-headedness about the group collectively to deal with that. We prep them for their exam at the weekend, but we don't know what the questions are going to be. They've got to work them out themselves Ange Postecoglou “That has been a really pleasing thing and because they’re getting rewards from that, then that gives us the opportunity to accelerate the growth of giving them more tools out there to help them for whatever we need to overcome. “I thought tonight was going to be a real difficult game for us. Coming here, Palace’s result last week, it’s a tight ground, they’d only conceded three goals in the four games so far and how were the lads going to cope with the fact we weren’t going to create as many chances as we had been? “I really liked the way we worked through that as a group.” After returning to the Premier League summit with a 2-0 win over Fulham on Monday, Spurs struggled in the first half at Selhurst Park and were indebted to fine early saves from Guglielmo Vicario to deny Ayew and Odsonne Edouard. Postecoglou, who had lambasted his side for their second-half showing earlier in the week, introduced Emerson Royal for Ben Davies at the break and watched Ward put into his own net from Maddison’s cross to open the scoring. It was 2-0 when Son fired home for his eighth goal of the campaign following Johnson’s smart pass, his first assist since a £45million deadline-day transfer from Nottingham Forest. While Ayew managed to reduce the deficit – in the fourth minute of stoppage time after a lengthy VAR check – Tottenham stood firm to claim a fourth-straight win and show another side with a dogged defensively display, despite enjoying more than 70 per cent possession. Postecoglou added: “I have always felt that matchdays are about the players. What we try to do on a daily basis is give them the tools to find the solutions. “We prep them for their exam at the weekend, but we don’t know what the questions are going to be. They’ve got to work them out themselves. “In an exam you are not asking anybody for help. You have to work it out yourself and hopefully what we’ve given them is the tools.” Palace boss Roy Hodgson was disappointed to suffer a second-consecutive defeat and admitted his substitutes weakened his team. “I thought it was an aggressive and quite-controlled first half from our side, but of course the first goal then produces a second,” he said. “That is when we start putting players on the field, players who have not really played with the first team, Jes (Rak-Sakyi), (Naouirou) Ahamada, (Matheus) Franca and we lost the intensity we were able to do in the first half. “In the end it became easy for them (Tottenham) to see the game through.” Read More Kyle Walker says Manchester City will be wary of Marcus Rashford in derby Wolves v Chelsea on Christmas Eve means ‘unhappy wife’ for Mauricio Pochettino Tyson Fury: Ngannou fight like Djokovic facing table tennis player at Wimbledon Matthew Mott wary of ‘raging favourites’ as England look to avoid further shame Pep Guardiola condemns Man City fans who sang offensive Sir Bobby Charlton chant Mikel Arteta calls for increased squad sizes as Arsenal suffer fresh injury blow
2023-10-28 07:23

German government grants Siemens Energy a loan guarantee to help secure the company
The German government says it is granting a 7.5 billion-euro ($8 billion) loan guarantee to energy technology company Siemens Energy as part of a package to help the firm
2023-11-14 23:19

Pubs Gain After Beer Duty Autumn Statement Giveaway
Britain’s biggest pub groups rose after Chancellor of the Exchequer Jeremy Hunt froze alcohol duty, in a move
2023-11-22 23:25

Montreal police probe shots fired at Jewish schools
Quebec's Jewish community, rocked by violence, fears a rise in hate crimes amid the Israel-Gaza war.
2023-11-10 23:26

'Oppenheimer' stirs up conflicted history for Los Alamos and New Mexico downwinders
An upcoming movie about a man who changed the course of the world’s history by shepherding the development of the first atomic bomb is expected to be a blockbuster
2023-07-19 13:19

Two Israeli civilians killed in flashpoint West Bank town, Israel military says
Two Israeli civilians were shot and killed on Saturday in the flashpoint West Bank town of Huwara, according to the Israel Defense Forces (IDF).
2023-08-20 10:22
You Might Like...

England dump Germany out of European Under-21 Championship with impressive win

Next Raises Guidance Again on Strong Third Quarter Sales

Why is George Alan Kelly being compared to the Unabomber? Arizona rancher's texts hint at motive behind alleged killing of Mexican migrant

Out of bailout spotlight, Greeks feeling recovery pains at election

Yellen urges China to support existing institutions to fight climate change

Mila Kunis and Ashton Kutcher's letters of support for their 'That '70s Show' co-star Danny Masterson come to light after his sentencing

Andrew Tate says he prefers to 'stay on house arrest' just a day after major legal victory, fans say 'jail really changed this man'

Erling Haaland discusses Jude Bellingham's 'incredible' start at Real Madrid