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Since I moved to France two years ago, I’ve learned not to be in a hurry on market day. Everyone wants a chat. This is never more apparent than on the cheese stalls of our village market on Tuesdays and in the nearby town of Pezenas on Saturdays. We discuss what I bought last week, the merits of the new season cheeses, and I sometimes come away with a mini jar of jam or mildly spicy piment d’espelette jelly, a “free” gift for spending a ludicrous amount because if you put something in front of me I haven’t tried before I will not be able to resist. The French love of cheese is legendary. General de Gaulle is supposed once to have said, “How can you govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?” Skip forward a few decades, and the consternation over Nicolas Sarkozy’s flashy Rolex habit was as nothing to the outrage when it was revealed he planned to nix the cheese course from state lunches. Was a president who neither ate cheese nor drank wine (he believed it slowed you down) really worthy of the highest office in France? So imagine the reaction when it was announced that “meddlesome” Brussels, in a quest to make all food packaging recyclable by 2030, was voting on a ruling that would get rid of the classic and much loved round wooden boxes camembert has been packaged in since the 19th century. The ruling next week would also affect Mont d’Or cheese and the crates oysters are sold in, but let’s focus on camembert for now. There’s only so much smelling salts to go round. Guillaume Poitrinal, chair of the French Heritage Foundation, said on X/Twitter: “The wooden box – low carbon, light, biodegradable, tough, made in France – is better for the planet than plastic from Saudi oil, transformed in China with coal-fired electricity, and which will end up in the ocean.” But while in some quarters the camembert crisis of 2023 has been presented as an opportunity to give Brussels a kicking, it’s inevitably more complicated than that. An article in Le Monde suggests this is a red herring, a battle inflamed by the biggest producers of industrial camembert to protect their corner of the market. French customers bought more than 45,000 tonnes of camembert last year, with only 6,000 tonnes being artisanal camembert meriting the protected designation of origin label. At the moment, all camemberts are sold in the famous wooden boxes, making the artisanal and mass-market cheeses indistinguishable to most. If this legislation passes, only the protected-origin cheese will be allowed to retain the traditional boxes. The rest will be forced into some lesser, biodegradable plastic outfit, visually marking them out as a second-rank product. But shall we, while we’re here, put a word in for second best? In a world where there is as much snobbery about cheese as there is about wine, some wags have commented that the boxes taste better than the mass-produced cheese. Forgive them their snobbery, it’s all they have to make them feel alive. Of course, if you love cheese you won’t want to deprive yourself of a beautiful artisanal camembert, made in the way it has been made for centuries, offering whiffs of hay, mushrooms and the milkmaid’s apron. Who cares if it costs as much as the dinner that preceded it? But few of us could, without blinking, fill up a party cheeseboard with these precious rounds just to watch Fred from over the road hoovering them up unthinkingly between sloshing down cheap red and boring on about low-traffic neighbourhoods and parking. And removing everyday camembert from its wooden box would deprive us all of that cold-weather favourite, indulgent and delicious far in excess of its cost or difficulty. I speak of the glory that is a whole camembert baked in its box, served with small potatoes, cornichons, and perhaps a bit of ham? I know in my career as a food writer, few recipes are more crowd-pleasing than something that goes big on the melted cheese. If I were ever in any doubt, I recently shared a recipe in my weekly recipe newsletter for dauphinoise potatoes with a whole (mass-market) camembert baked in the middle. Essentially, I sent potatoes to do the wooden box’s job. The crowd went wild. Then, the Queen herself, Nigella Lawson, cooked it and shared a picture of it on her Instagram. Within hours, I had hundreds more followers hunting me down for the recipe. So I am very grateful for the little cheese in the wooden box and I hope it will never change. I know I share that feeling with the majority of French people, and if I’ve learned anything at all about my new countrymen and women, ruling or no ruling, I doubt camembert (or Mont d’Or, or oysters) will be sporting new outfits anytime soon. Plus ca change. Debora Robertson’s Lickedspoon online newsletter is published weekly; she also posts on Instagram, @lickedspoon Read More Woman defends her $7,000 cheese board Will an adaptogen a day keep the doctor away this winter? David Beckham spotted with Bollywood stars at Sonam Kapoor’s private party in Mumbai Will an adaptogen a day keep the doctor away this winter? 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Scandinavian style has long been associated with a chic, pared-back wardrobe. Think boxy oversized blazers, crisp shirting, and no-fuss straight-leg denim. Much like French-girl fashion, it’s a look that’s emulated by people all over the world – but not just sartorially. For our homes, it means a focus on function with clean lines, pale hues, soft lighting, and cosy materials like sheepskin rugs and mohair throws. Ever inspired by confronting frigid Nordic winters, the aesthetic embraces the concept of “hygge” (pronounced ‘hoo-ga’). This Danish and Norwegian term describes a mood of cosiness and “comfortable conviviality” characterised by feelings of wellness and contentment. With autumn creeping in and chilly, lengthy evenings around the corner, here’s how to incorporate Scandinavia’s enduring design principles into your home – just in time to stave off the winter blues. Luxury London-based interior designer Naomi Astley Clarke begins, “your home should promote guilt free and unconditionally relaxed living in a beautiful atmosphere. In this uncertain world and especially when it’s freezing outside, our homes continue to be our security blankets.” To make your sanctuary as hygge as possible, she advises: “first ask yourself – how do I need my space to make me feel? For example, in your bedroom, you’ll want to be calm, cosy, and well rested. Think about the colours, textures, and things that will help you achieve those feelings.” In keeping with the Scandinavian love of the natural world, consider layering your space with a range of organic materials such as blonde and charred woods, linen, waffled cotton, jute, sheepskin, and leather. Astley Clarke adds, “imagine a scheme with timber floors, a plush, deep pile rug, and billowy linen curtains, broken up by mid-century wood furniture. Tall indoor plants in oversized vintage urns bring lush height and depth to the space. And if you’re after a more luxe look, incorporate some mixed metal details and marble finishes." If you’re wondering where to begin in your own sanctuary, consider the lighting. A dazzling overhead light can be quite the mood killer. Instead, varied and layered lighting – a mix of floor and table lamps, wall lights, and pendants – will cast a pleasing glow around your space for the ultimate hygge factor in the darkest months of the year. Lighting design studio, lights&lamps, has just collaborated with lifestyle creator and co-author of Scandi Rustic Reena Simon, on a range of hygge-inspired fixtures in aged brass, natural walnut, and charred wood. The collection features warm-toned bulbs and layered linen shades, designed to soften a light’s brightness and create a tranquil feeling. Once your lighting is sorted, keep the chill away by indulging in some toasty accessories. Drape a couple of throw blankets over the back of your sofa or favourite leather armchair, and layer over fresh bed linen for a final textural touch. If you’re willing to splurge, go for the Tartan Blanket Co’s Neutral Check undyed alpaca to throw in shades of camel, cream, and fog or Forestry Wool’s dusky pink Stream blanket. For some affordable alternatives, look to Zara Home’s velvety chenille and jumper-esque knit throws, or H&M Home’s wool-blend and jacquard-weave blankets. Bo Hellberg, chief marketing officer at Scandinavian modular storage pioneer, String Furniture, shares, “when it comes to Scandi design, there’s often a big misconception: ‘minimalism.’ Although there are parallels, the region’s style is more than just understated, neat, and necessary. Equally essential as pure function is beauty that draws inspiration from Nordic nature” – which isn’t just pale birch trees and blankets of snow. Consider the wildflower garlands that adorn heads, maypoles, and tabletops during Midsommar, the Swedish celebration of the summer season and the longest night of the year. Don’t be afraid to draw on these joy-inducing shades and botanical motifs to accessorise your Scandi-inspired interior. For example, the String Pocket – a compact floating shelf, ideal for holding books, candles, and houseplants – now comes in hues ranging from neon orange and violet to blush, rust, and sage green. A pop of colourful shelving sits prettily against white walls, transforming a blank canvas into a functional focal point. Cushions are another simple way to inject vibrance and interest into an otherwise pared-back furniture scheme. I suggest fabric studio Molly Mahon’s hand block-printed throw cushions. Lately, I’m in love with their frill Strawberry Copper, Chequer Blues, and Piped Luna Pink designs. Coco and Wolf’s frill-trimmed cushions in rambling floral prints also never disappoint. Candles are a key finishing touch to any hygge-fied home, adding to the cosy ambience and engulfing your space in your favourite mood-lifting aromas. As a candle enthusiast, I often spend my lunch break wandering Liberty’s fragrance hall, so I’ve smelled a lot of smells – but lately, nothing has captured my attention quite like Malin and Goetz’s new Strawberry candle. It’s not at all juicy or juvenile. Instead, it highlights the fruit’s green leaves and stem, accompanied by notes of fresh bergamot, pink pepper and warm musk. Unexpectedly autumn-appropriate, it’s an androgynous scent that’s reminiscent of the neck of your favourite sweater after you’ve worn it all day – warm, comforting and familiar. Suddenly I’m addicted to breathing, and there’s nothing I can do about it except keep Strawberry lit and in my vicinity. 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